Uganda > Boating on the Kazinga Channel

Hoping to spot lions today, I set out early for a game drive. Last night, hippos apparently wandered through the campsite, though I didn’t notice a thing. The bus takes me through the same area as yesterday, where the chances of seeing lions are highest. The other side of the road is more densely vegetated, making animals harder to spot. Jampa drives along the paths toward the village we passed yesterday. It’s still very quiet on the savanna. The usual animals appear, but only in small numbers. Jampa tries to spot lions under the bushes, occasionally driving slightly off the road to circle a thicket.

Uganda - A young male lion scratches its head

Officially, off-road driving is prohibited. Up to the salt lake, I see little of interest. The passing cars shake their heads repeatedly—no lions, no leopards. Just as I’m heading back, Jampa gets a tip that lions have been spotted. He speeds off immediately. When I arrive, three other buses are already at the side. About three hundred meters away, two lions lie in the grass. I can barely make them out. After a short wait, the male lifts his head and scratches with his paw, and all cameras click simultaneously. The female occasionally rises above the grass as well. What a sight! This makes up entirely for the somewhat disappointing morning game drive. After about fifteen minutes and fifty photos, I continue on, completing the game drive. I head toward the official entrance of Queen Elizabeth Park.

Uganda - A tourist boat passes by bathing elephants

Just before the entrance, I visit a group of flamingos at Salt Lake Katwe. Jampa drives the bus off-road down the slope toward the lake. As soon as I get out, two men arrive on a scooter, demanding an entrance fee. A heated discussion erupts between Frank, Jampa, and the men. Frank doesn’t trust them and points out that this is part of Queen Elizabeth National Park. Meanwhile, I quickly take photos of the flamingos. When I return, Frank has angrily confiscated one of the men’s identification and insists on a proper receipt. We follow the men on the scooter to a sort of tourist office. When Frank comes back, he’s a few shillings lighter and still visibly furious. I continue into the park via the official entrance and head to the Safari Lodge. This super-luxurious lodge is located in the heart of the park along the Kazinga Channel, where I have lunch. I can also use the pool for a fee. From the terrace and the pool, I have a view of the Kazinga Channel. Across the water, a large herd of elephants is bathing—there’s no better place for a swim.

Uganda - Two elephants playfight at the waters edge

After lunch, I take a boat trip along the Kazinga Channel, passing close to where the elephants are bathing. Groups of buffalo line the water, and hippos glance up as I pass. It’s a magnificent sight with all the animals together. Everyone wants to take photos, and the boat quickly tilts to the left. Further on, two elephants stand in the water. As I approach, a small display of dominance breaks out. After the exertion, both elephants walk off triumphantly in opposite directions. The shoreline hosts a wide variety of waterbirds: herons, pelicans, storks, cormorants, malabus, and many smaller birds. After two hours, I return to the little harbor where the buses are ready. Clearly, I’ve grown spoiled by all the wildlife. I no longer ask Jampa to stop for buffalo or elephants, except when an elephant is standing in the middle of the road. In the evening, a four-course dinner awaits. Smoke from the campfire blows directly toward me, so the fire is quickly extinguished. As I crawl into my sleeping bag, I listen to the sounds of nature. During the night, I hear hippos moving across the campsite. Suddenly, they seem startled and sprint back to the water at full speed past my tent.