Uganda > On the way to Sipi Falls

I open the curtains. Instead of the view over the city of Kampala, I see mist. The clouds hang low over the city, obscuring the view. It’s also quite chilly outside. During breakfast, the sky slowly clears, and the sun begins to peek through. At nine o’clock, I leave the city heading east. I have a long travel day ahead. Exiting the city is as remarkable as entering it yesterday. The tactic is simple: you just drive into the intersection.

Uganda - A group of pelicans resting in a tree along the road

Whoever nudges their vehicle between the line of waiting cars and the one that accelerates first (or brakes last) goes first. Edwin masters the game well and wins regularly. He drives safely through the busy traffic without damage. Outside the city, the road quickly becomes quieter. I drive toward Jinja. The road is in good condition, with only occasional potholes to avoid. I notice the landscape is remarkably green. Uganda sits on a plateau about 1,000 meters above sea level, making it much less hot and dry than surrounding African countries. Looking through the windshield, I recognize the typical African street scene: countless roadside stalls, small village markets, and the reddish dirt side roads. I also spot brick kilns where stones are baked. The houses along this main road look relatively well-kept compared to other African countries—I hardly see wooden huts. Further inland, this would likely be different. After Jinja, I continue to Mbale. This area has many cattle, which graze on small plots of land and are tied by one leg.

Uganda - The 70meter high Sipi Falls waterfall in eastern Uganda

Goats and chickens wander among them. The children along the route often notice me late; they quickly wave when they see me. The bus speeds past on the asphalt, making it hard for them to spot us among the many minibuses. In Mbale, I have lunch at a luxury resort on the outskirts. Here, too, I am checked with a metal detector for weapons. Frank had pre-ordered my meal, so my sandwich quickly arrives. Otherwise, preparing an order can take a long time. From Mbale, it’s another 60 kilometers to Sipi Falls. In the distance, I can already see the mountain ranges surrounding Sipi. Soon, the road climbs into the mountains. Sipi Falls is a lesser-known tourist destination: a series of three large waterfalls in eastern Uganda, located on the slopes of Mount Elgon National Park near the border with Kenya. I stay at Sipi Fall Resort at an altitude of 1,800 meters. I sleep in charming wooden rondavels with a shower/toilet in an annex. Electricity is only available in the evening when the generator is running. From the terrace at the bar, there is a stunning view over the hundred-meter-deep valley and a 50-meter-high waterfall. At the end of the afternoon, I walk into the village and follow the trail to Crown’s Nest. I climb to the top, passing some simple-looking houses of the Crown’s Nest resort. A narrow path leads me to the summit, where there is a breathtaking view of the surroundings. From this viewpoint, you can see the three Sipi waterfalls in a row. On the way down, a boy with a receipt book stops me. He says a fee must be paid for the viewpoint—2,000 shillings per person (about 50 cents). It sounds unbelievable, but the stamp looks official. A discussion about the price follows. In the end, I settle the argument for my own access and that of my travel companions with some money. He seems satisfied—probably more than he’s officially entitled to. In the evening, I dine at the lodge with a view of the waterfall. Oil lamps light the table, as the generator occasionally fails. At ten o’clock, I hang my mosquito net over my bed and go to sleep.