Uganda > Eye to eye with the gorillas

Even before my alarm goes off, I wake up with a start. All the lights are blazing. The generator was switched on again for breakfast—yesterday I forgot to turn off the switches. Quickly, I turn off the lights so my roommate can continue sleeping. It’s a quarter past five. With my flashlight, I gather my things. In the darkness, I walk up the steep slope.

Uganda - On the way to the gorillas in Bwindi

In the beam of my headlamp, I can see only a few meters ahead. I have no idea how far I still have to go. Once everyone is ready, I drive down the dark, bumpy road into the hills in one of the minibuses, heading for the gorilla adventure—a ride of over an hour and a half. Slowly, daylight breaks, and daily life begins to stir. Upon arrival at the reserve, my permit and passport are checked thoroughly. I receive a detailed—but somewhat long-winded—briefing on how to behave around the gorillas. Just as the ranger explains that anyone with a cold is not allowed to join, one of the visitors sneezes.

Uganda - Impressive gorillas in Bwindi National Park

“Dust!” she shouts quickly as everyone laughs. Godfried will guide me today to the Shongi gorillas. With my travel group, I already form a group of eight people. Each of us has a local porter to carry our backpack and help on difficult sections. Finally, a fully armed soldier walks at the back. Eighteen of us walk single file into the forest. Two rangers have gone ahead to scout for the gorillas and stay in contact with Godfried once they locate them. The starting point is based on where the gorillas were spotted yesterday. The gorilla family was seen just over an hour’s walk away. Normally, gorilla families move less than a kilometer per day. Only if they are attacked by other families or food runs out will they travel further.

Uganda - The impressive dominant silverback gorilla stands upright

There’s no guarantee I’ll see the gorillas, but Godfried reassures me that so far this year, they have always found the Shongi family. The path is easy to follow. On some muddy sections, Ashrem, my porter, helps by extending his hand. I estimate him to be about 18 years old, earning extra money for his studies. I follow an elephant trail, which is marked by deep, muddy prints. Forest elephants are smaller than regular elephants but much more aggressive, and the rangers clearly do not want to encounter one. After about an hour, I turn left into the dense vegetation. A path has been cut through the bushes. Long pants and sleeves are very useful here. Some branches have sharp thorns. Gloves are recommended, but no one mentioned this before the trip—a tip for Sawadee. I pass the spot where the gorillas were seen yesterday. My excitement rises. Godfried informs me that the rangers ahead have spotted the animals. My anticipation grows further. I climb a steep slope. The ground is slippery from the footsteps of those before me. Suddenly, Ashrem stops me. “Look, Ronald, there’s a gorilla in the tree.” I have walked for an hour and forty-five minutes. I leave my bag, walking stick, and other items with Ashrem and continue toward the gorillas with only my camera. A few steps later, I see the silverback gorilla in the bushes. Every effort is immediately forgotten in this incredible moment. The silverback is the dominant male and leader of the group. When he stands on his hind legs, I see over 200 kilos of muscle less than five meters away. What an extraordinary experience. A youngster climbs down from a tree. Trees move all around me. It’s amazing that these creatures allow me into their habitat. Eating, they move slowly, and I follow a few meters behind.

Uganda - One of the gorillas from the Shongi family

Occasionally, a ranger clears leaves that block the view. I take a few photos but soon leave the camera aside to simply enjoy the moment. As the gorillas move on, following them becomes more difficult. The rangers make a path on the steep slope. Sometimes I slip a little on the slippery vegetation. It’s hard to see the ground I step on. Above and below me, the gorillas move easily through the trees. I am allowed one hour with the troop, but Godfried gives me an extra fifteen minutes as a bonus for the difficult climb. Eventually, I find the gorillas at the bottom of the hill, eating under the watchful eye of the silverback. What a fantastic finale. During lunch on the way back, I discuss all my experiences. At the starting point, I say goodbye to Ashrem. Godfried hands me my gorilla certificate, asking me to hang it in a visible spot at home to inspire others to visit the gorillas. On the drive back, the hilly road is much livelier. Children sing enthusiastically as I pass. Too bad only one group goes this way per day. I reward them with a cookie from the large box on the bus. Near Lake Matunda, I stop at a viewpoint where I can see Nkuringo Safari Lodge. Back at the lodge, my fellow travelers and the staff are eager to hear my stories. On the terrace, I share my experiences.