Latvia > The Hill of Crosses in Šiauliai

When we wake up, the sun is already shining through the small skylight—a promising start. Breakfast is served in the hotel’s basement, where we can still see the vaulted ceilings of the old building.Shortly after nine, we leave the hotel and enter the morning rush hour of Vilnius.

Latvia - The water castle of Trakai

Just outside Vilnius lies the water castle of Trakai. In the 14th century, this castle served to defend the then-capital. The fortress sits on an island and can be reached via a wooden bridge. When we park the car, we can already see the castle across the water. Over the centuries, the fort has been damaged several times, but it has now been fully restored. We enter the castle. In the various rooms, objects from old times are displayed. We also visit the rooms along the castle wall. We end the tour with a walk around the castle.Back in the car, we head toward Latvia. The roads are two-lane, meaning that overtaking trucks is difficult. Brutus simply doesn’t accelerate fast enough to pass. We’re in no rush and follow the truck traffic.Just before Siauliai, we decide to have lunch. Randomly, we pick a location on the navigation near a small lake. The road to it is unpaved. The sandy path turns into a rutted track. Two farm boys mowing nearby look surprised as we drive past. When the track turns into ordinary grass, we are practically at the lake.

Latvia - Looking for a lunch spot along the main road

The sun had been shining all morning, but now a few drops fall. We quickly grab some bread and eat in the car.We set the navigation for the Hill of Crosses in Siauliai. Apparently, the navigation has learned from our off-road adventures—it sends us down an unpaved path. Could this really lead to the Hill of Crosses? A few cows along the way are so startled by our yellow beast that they pull the peg holding their tether out of the ground. The farmer’s wife runs after them. Sorry! Our detour wasn’t necessary. Further on, we return to the main road.At the Hill of Crosses, the navigation is accurate. We park at the visitor center. Around 1830, the first cross was placed on this hill in memory of those who died during the November Uprising against the Russians. Afterward, it became a pilgrimage site.

Latvia - An unbelievable number of crosses gathered together

Numerous pilgrims have added crosses over the years. It is estimated that there are now around 500,000 crosses—but there could be even more. No one knows for sure. Among the large crosses are smaller ones, and the tiniest hang from the larger ones. Wherever you look, there are crosses. Walking among them up to the top of the hill is a unique experience.By now, it’s three o’clock. We begin the final stretch of the route to Riga. We cross the border into Latvia. Tonight, we plan to camp by Riga Bay. Jurmala is an old fishing village that has grown into a true holiday paradise. In the summer months, a special two-euro toll is required to enter. We enter a random campsite into the navigation—Camping Nemo. At the reception, the girl tells us we can first take a look around. On the left side are small wooden huts, each in a state of disrepair. The sanitary facilities also need some attention. Despite the campsite’s faded glory, we decide to set up our roof tent—we’re only staying for one night.By the car, we prepare macaroni. After dinner, we walk along the beach by the bay. The sun is low on the horizon.