Norway > Back to the mainland

We start the day with a good breakfast at the hotel. It’s not yet certain how we’ll manage lunch this afternoon, so a small snack buffet will be convenient. After breakfast, we pack the car again. We use the diesel from the jerrycan on the roof. It’s uncertain whether it’s allowed to bring filled jerrycans on board the ferry.

Norway - The harbor of the museum village Nusfjord

The ferry departs from Moskenes, the farthest point of the Lofoten. This is even slightly further than Reine, where we were yesterday. Midway along the route is the turnoff to Nusfjord. Nusfjord is a traditional fishing village. When we arrive, the parking lot is indicated straight ahead—up a narrow, steep path. A man walking his dog gestures that it’s okay. We hesitate for a moment, wondering whether to take the slope in normal gear or in low gear. In the end, we decide to try normal gear, and it works. At the top, we park the car. The village of Nusfjord is a museum village. To walk along the small harbor, a ticket must be purchased. We stroll past the old wooden houses painted red and yellow. Seagulls have built nests on the windowsills, and their droppings on the ground clearly show where they are. The harbor and the rocky surroundings make a beautiful sight. When we settle on a terrace, the café isn’t open yet. We wait patiently until eleven o’clock. From Nusfjord, it’s just under an hour’s drive to Moskenes. We have paid extra for a reserved spot on the 1:30 PM ferry. This proves to be a good decision, as the parking lot at the ferry terminal is already full of waiting cars. We take our place in the “pre-reserved” line, still waiting for the ferry. A Scottish couple comes over to chat. They’re driving a Land Rover Defender and are parked just behind us.

Norway - The ferry from the tip of Lofoten back to the mainland

They now live in Sweden and are also on vacation. A little before 1:30, the ferry arrives. Surprisingly quickly, the cars drive off the dock and we board. Within half an hour, the ferry is fully loaded. We sail out to sea toward Bodø. Although the sea appears calm, the ferry rocks considerably on the open water. The small restaurant temporarily closes because items won’t stay in place, and people stagger between the chairs. Still, no one actually gets seasick. The crossing lasts just over three hours. The first sign of land is small rocky islands forming a chain along the coast. The ferry maneuvers between them. At 5:45 PM, the ferry docks in the harbor of Bodø, and we drive off. Just outside Bodø lies the Saltstraumen, the strongest tidal current in the world. During ebb and flow, an enormous amount of water is forced through a narrow opening into the Skjerstadfjord. The power of the water creates strong whirlpools. At the campsite, we discover we’ve just missed the evening “show.” Tomorrow morning at 7:30, we can see it. Good reason to set the alarm. We set up the tent and prepare chicken tandoori. Tonight, we are still sleeping above the Arctic Circle. Because it cools down quickly in the evening, after a walk along the fjord, we head to bed early.