
Home > Finland > To the Far North of Europe > Travelogue day 11
July 126 2017 (26 days)
As we set off, the navigation system warns that further along there is a delay because animals are on the roadway. It’s still 110 kilometers away, so the obstruction will probably be cleared by then, but it indicates that we’ll need to stay alert for crossing moose today as well.
Today’s travel distance is relatively short—perhaps the shortest of our trip. We’re heading to Saariselkä, a small village in the far north of Finland. Leaving Rovaniemi, we pass the Santa Claus village again and cross the Arctic Circle once more. Only now do we notice that two days ago, on the way to Rovaniemi, there was no truck traffic on the road. It was Sunday then. Today, trucks are running, though traffic is still light. Several RVs pass us, along with a relatively large number of motorcyclists—likely all having already visited the North Cape. Around noon, we enter Saariselkä. In winter, it’s a ski resort; in summer, it primarily serves as a stopover for travelers heading to the North Cape. The owner of Saariselkä Inn welcomes us warmly. He tells us there are only 400 residents, but during peak season, 14,000 beds can be occupied by tourists. He also describes the hiking possibilities in Urho Kekkonen National Park and advises us to visit the top of Kiilopää Hill. From there, there’s a wide view of the surrounding area, and on a clear day, even the border with Russia can be seen. By car, we drive to the top of the hill. The unused chairlifts indicate that this must be the center of the ski paradise in winter. The view is beautiful, though the landscape is mostly barren. Because we are so far north, vegetation quickly thins out. Especially in the higher areas, almost nothing grows. From the observation tower next to the restaurant, we look in the direction of Russia. The border should be 42 kilometers away, but we cannot make it out. Back in the village, we drive to the national park. Several trails start from the entrance, some circular, others leading to recreation or overnight huts. We choose the yellow route along the old mine. Already at the first bend, it becomes clear we are on the wrong path—we have unintentionally followed the red route. By following red, we can reconnect with yellow later, though the route will be slightly longer.
Urho Kekkonen National Park is Finland’s second-largest park. The landscape is a mix of rocky mountains, sloping plateaus, and spruce forests. The weather is perfect for hiking, with the sun shining through light clouds. Along the way, we pass an old mine. It was established in 1903 for gold extraction. The shaft was 51 meters deep. In the miner’s house, you can look into the shaft. Opening a hatch plays recorded miner sounds—quite amusing. After nearly three hours of hiking, we return to Saariselkä. We have walked twelve kilometers through the national park. In the evening, we dine at a restaurant across the street. Strangely, there isn’t much choice in summer. Fortunately, our meal had already been ordered when the cash register broke down. New customers were referred to the other two restaurants. Tonight, we sleep above the Arctic Circle for the first time. The sleep mask from the previous hotel comes in handy, as it no longer gets dark here. Tomorrow, we will head to the North Cape.