Guatemala > The Mayan city of Tikal

The alarm goes off at half past three. I slept poorly. Fortunately, my mosquito net construction stayed in place, but every time I turned, I brushed against it. Hopefully, the mosquitoes left me alone during the night. I get dressed and grab a coffee in the restaurant, also taking a breakfast package with me. Roél, the guide for Tikal, is already waiting for me at the restaurant. Shortly after four, I walk into the park with my flashlight in hand. Roél shines it on the ground and warns about snakes and venomous spiders.

Guatemala - View over the rainforest of Tikal at sunrise

He also says that occasionally a jaguar can be spotted. I feel my excitement increase when I see two eyes reflecting in the beam of my flashlight in the bushes. It turns out to be just a small deer. It’s about a half-hour walk in the dark to Temple IV. There is something magical about walking through the forest like this. I only realize I’m passing a large temple when Roél shines his flashlight on it. Temple Q stands right by the path. Roél assures me I can definitely visit these temples on the way back in daylight. I pass the Central Plaza and see Maya ruins all around me in the dark. At the base of Temple IV, a wooden staircase begins. I climb the stairs. A long ascent brings me to the top of the temple. Temple IV rises high above the jungle. In the dark, I can make out the mist between the trees. The howler monkeys are making a lot of noise from below. I sit on the temple steps and enjoy the awakening of the jungle. I estimate about fifty other people are also enjoying this special moment. By around half past five, it is gradually getting lighter. Only now can I distinguish the temples in the distance from the treetops. Various troops of monkeys make themselves heard. Birds fly overhead. Nature is truly beautiful. While enjoying the view, I eat my breakfast package. Once it is light, I begin my descent. Roél guides me around the Maya temples. I estimate he is in his late twenties. He speaks enthusiastically. Although he tells this story to tourists day in and day out, he certainly does not give that impression.

Guatemala - Carefully descending the steep temple in Tikal

He tells me vividly about the history of the Maya, the rise and fall of the Maya empire, how Tikal was discovered in 1848, and how parts of the city have been restored. Only twenty percent of the ruins have been restored; the rest are still hidden under earth and tree trunks. Roél explains that a Japanese team wanted to carry out the restorations, but the mayor blocked it. If a Maya temple is restored, there is no money available for maintenance afterward. He would only grant permission for restoration if funding for maintenance were also available. At Temple V, it is clear how the temples have been restored. The characteristic stairway on the side of the temple has been almost entirely rebuilt. Photos show the situation before and after. Further along, I see people walking on a temple. I want to do that too. I climb the narrow stairs to the top. The steps are narrow, slightly slanted, and slippery. From the temple, I have a beautiful view. As I try to go back down, I slip at the top and slide two steps down. Fortunately, I had not reached the steep section; otherwise, I would have slid thirty meters. A little shaken, I carefully climb back down. At the Central Acropolis, Roél takes me to a viewpoint over the acropolis. “Welcome to Tikal,” he says triumphantly. I have a stunning view of the acropolis temples.

Guatemala - View of the Great Plaza of Tikal with Temples I and II facing each other

Fantastic! After a four-hour tour of Tikal, I follow Roél back to the exit. I really enjoyed his explanations. At the lodge, I say goodbye to him. It is half past ten, and the sun is already strong. I take a dip in the pool and let the images of Tikal sink in. In the afternoon, I take the bus to Flores. Flores is a town on an island in Lake Petén Itzá. It lies forty kilometers from Tikal and is a base for many tourists visiting Tikal. Walking through Flores, I notice it is very tourist-oriented. I order a beer and enjoy the view over the water. At the end of the afternoon, I take a domestic flight from Flores to Guatemala City. I estimate about fifty passengers are waiting in the departure hall. First, everyone with boarding pass 3 is allowed to board, including me. I step onto a small plane with space for just thirty people. Passengers with other boarding numbers are in even smaller planes. In total, three planes fly from Flores to Guatemala City—a flight of less than an hour. From the plane, I can see the lights of the capital. When I exit, I walk to the arrivals area—or rather, there isn’t one. I walk across the airfield into a hangar full of helicopters. At the rear, I pass through a door and am on the street. A small vehicle arrives with my luggage, which is unloaded in the middle of the street. It’s clear that Guatemala City is at a high elevation; it is quite cool. In about an hour, I arrive in Antigua. Along the way, I snack on some cookies, as it is too late to eat upon arrival.