Nicaragua > Kayaking among the Isletas de Granada

Around seven o’clock, I walk into the courtyard of Hotel Con Corazon. It’s still quiet. The attendant explains in Spanish that breakfast isn’t served until 7:30. Would I like some coffee in the meantime? Yes, please. Around half past seven, the other travelers join for a hearty breakfast with fruit, yogurt, warm bread rolls, and even peanut butter. By minivan, I drive to the lake to go canoeing among the Isletas de Granada islands. Just off the coast of Granada lie numerous smaller islands. These islands were formed during a volcanic eruption of the Mombacho volcano. Francesco is the guide this morning. He hands me a life jacket and points me to a canoe. I step in carefully and paddle against the moderate waves on the lake. Occasionally, a wave splashes over the bow of my canoe. It’s good that I’ve packed my belongings in a waterproof bag and that I’m in my swimsuit in the boat.

Nicaragua - Kayaking on Lake Nicaragua

Francesco gestures for me to follow him toward the islands. I cross the waves carefully, trying to maintain my balance as the canoe is lifted by the water. I reach the islands without any problems. Between the islands, the water is calm and flat. As I paddle along, I see various birds in the trees. Francesco points out the houses of wealthy Nicaraguans. The islands are for sale at a high price. At a narrow passage filled with water plants, Francesco tells me not to worry and to avoid capsizing. I paddle through the vegetation. My single-person canoe still allows me to maneuver reasonably well, but the two-person canoe behind me is too long to make the turn through the plants. The canoe can’t move forward or backward. Because it seems to get even denser further on, Francesco decides to turn back. As an alternative, I go around the island. I see small restaurants on the islands. At the old fort, I stop briefly. Francesco explains that this fort once served to defend the city of Granada from pirates on the lake. From here, I paddle back across the lake to the shore. The return route is tougher than I expected; it’s quite a distance to paddle. As a consolation, I enjoy a beautiful view of the Mombacho volcano.

Nicaragua - The Mombacho volcano seen from Granada

In the afternoon, after lunch, I set out for a walk along the crater rim of this volcano. The Mombacho volcano is 1,344 meters high and has four crater rims. It erupted in 1570. Today the volcano is no longer active, and the craters are fully vegetated. A 4x4 jeep drives me to the top of the volcano. Normally, small trucks are also used, but since it’s the low season, the trucks don’t run in the afternoon. I chose an organized tour from Granada—it’s much easier that way. The steep path leads to the top of the volcano. It’s good that traffic on the path is coordinated; I can’t imagine meeting another vehicle going the opposite way here. At the top of the main crater, Gustavo welcomes me. At the model, he explains the shape of the volcano, its origin, and today’s hike. I follow him along the path around the crater. Along the way, he talks extensively about the trees and plants. Due to the volcano’s elevation, the vegetation forms a tropical cloud forest. Gustavo points out which leaves are useful or poisonous. Much of it is similar to what I learned in Monteverde, but it’s nice to hear it again. I enter the main crater through a fissure in the rocks. Gustavo explains that this fissure was formed by an earthquake. The 200-meter-deep crater is fully vegetated, making it difficult to discern its depth. From the outer rim of the crater, I have a view of Lake Nicaragua, Granada, and the islands I visited this morning—a stunning panorama. In the distance, I see smoke rising from the Masaya volcano, a travel destination for tomorrow. On the crater rim, I also see a hot spring, with sulfuric steam rising between the trees. I walk back to the starting point via the other side of the crater and return to my hotel in Granada by jeep.