Nicaragua > The historic city of León

Nicaragua - The cathedral of Leon is the largest in Central America

I leave Granada and drive north toward León. After about half an hour, Belisario turns off and drives the bus into the parking lot of Masaya National Park. The barrier gate is still closed. It turns out the staff are in a meeting, so the gate has been shut. I have to wait a little. The Masaya volcano is one of the most active volcanoes in Nicaragua. The last eruption was two years ago. Once the meeting ends, I can enter the park. The Masaya volcano is easy to visit, as a road runs all the way up to the crater rim. This is unique. Visitors are advised to park their cars facing forward so they can drive away quickly in case of a sudden eruption. Signs also advise taking cover under a car if the volcano starts spitting rocks. I trust that the volcano will remain calm today. At the crater rim, I see a thick plume of smoke rising from the volcano—a remarkable sight. The stairway leading to the cross, which the Spanish once placed to drive away the devil, is closed. Landslides occurred here during the last eruption, making the area unsafe. I walk up on the other side for a good view of the volcanic crater. I also continue to the adjacent inactive crater, which is completely overgrown. After descending and continuing on toward León, I pass through the capital, Managua.

Nicaragua - The colorful street scene of Leon

Broad, busy roads with large traffic roundabouts dominate the city. Managua doesn’t really have a center or historic buildings, so it’s no loss that I’m not staying here. In just over an hour, I arrive in León. Along the way, I can see the Momotombo volcano. The old city of León once lay at the base of this volcano. During the eruption in 1523, the city was completely destroyed. The old city, León Viejo, is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. After the destruction, the new city of León was founded 35 kilometers away. My hotel is in the center of the new city, just one block from the central square. At the central square, Parque Central, stands the León Cathedral. It is the largest cathedral in Central America. Standing in front of it, I am struck by how wide the cathedral is; it looks massive. Inside, the church is beautifully decorated. I have trouble finding the famous twelve apostles, but a guide points out the statues on the twelve pillars. He also shows me the tomb of the famous poet Rubén Darío. For a small fee, I can also visit the roof. I follow the guide up a small, narrow staircase.

Nicaragua - The Iglesia de la Recollection in Leon

From the cathedral roof, I have a view of the mercado behind the church. The mercado is a large market hall full of small shops. The streets around the market are also filled with vendors. I wander through the stalls, seeing fruits, meats, as well as pots and pans. Essentially, everything is available here. At the end of the market, I arrive at the Iglesia El Calvario, a beautiful church painted in several colors on the outside. Inside, singing can be heard—I assume a mass is taking place. I peek inside from the back of the church. Back at the central square, I order a drink and watch people pass by from the terrace. Finally, I end my walk through the center with a visit to the Iglesia de la Recollection, a fine baroque church. The town of León resembles Granada, but I felt more at home in Granada. Granada seemed a bit more relaxed to me. However, during dinner at a Belgian restaurant, opinions differ—some prefer Granada, while others favor León. After dinner, I visit one of the many bars in León. In a karaoke bar, I order a beer. The bars and clubs aren’t very crowded, so I decide to finish the night with a nightcap back at the hotel.