Guatemala > Crossing the border to Rio Dulce

I spend my last Honduran Lempira bills at breakfast, covering any remaining difference with dollars. It works out perfectly. If I pay with a bill that’s too large in dollars, I receive my change in Lempiras, which I’d rather avoid. I travel back to Guatemala the same way as yesterday. After Geert’s tour yesterday, I look differently at the people I see walking in the mountains. Could they be drug runners? I almost think so when I see a man carrying two backpacks. The border crossing goes quickly again. Since I’ve spent less than three days in Copán, both countries consider it more of a short trip than a formal entry or exit.

Guatemala - Sunrise near Rio Dulce

Before I know it, I’m back in Guatemala—my eighth border crossing in Central America, with three more to go. This trip is really filling my passport with new stamps. I have lunch along the way at a nice local eatery. The choices are simple: chicken or meat. I’m not particularly hungry for either, so I decide to order only a salad. Once everything arrives on the table, I end up sharing a bit of everything, which makes sense when the bill is split afterward. Around three o’clock, I arrive in the town of Rio Dulce. Rio Dulce lies on Lake Izabal at the mouth of the El Golfete River, which is the passage to the Caribbean Sea. From the high bridge, I have a view over the lake and the wide river. Erik shows me the lodge where I’ll be staying for the next two days. The lodge is not accessible by bus, so I board a small boat with my luggage. In about ten minutes, I’m ferried across the river. I’m welcomed with a drink upon arrival. The lodge consists of many small, charming cottages. Due to the high water, it sometimes reaches above the wooden walkways. Carefully, I walk to the cottage named “Flamenco,” a neat triangular cabin with two beds equipped with mosquito nets. I’m tired from the day of travel. I turn on the air conditioning and lie down for an hour. In the evening, I have dinner at the restaurant overlooking the river. Across the water, I can see the lights of Rio Dulce.