Georgia > From Kusaisi to Gori

We check the oil, coolant, and power steering levels. It’s always a bit nerve-wracking after such a tough journey through the mountains. Fortunately, all levels are fine. In Kutaisi are the ruins of Bagrati Cathedral. This cathedral was built on the orders of King Bagrat. Many Georgian churches are modeled on this architecture. The church was blown up by the Turks in 1692 but has since been restored. As we arrive, the service has just started—it’s Sunday. Beautiful Georgian chanting fills the church. Inside, the church is simply furnished.

Georgia - The Bagrati Cathedral in Kutaisi

There are no frescoes on the walls or ceiling, though there must have been some in the past. From the ruins, there is a fine view over the city of Kutaisi. Just east of the city lie the Gelati and Motsameta monasteries. We drive to Gelati Monastery. Supposedly, King David the Builder is buried beneath the entrance to the Cathedral of the Virgin. In this way, the faithful would walk over him and continue to remember him. A service is also taking place in this church. The ceremony, the chanting, and the beautifully frescoed and mosaic-decorated church create an impressive overall experience. The monastery is busy. For many Georgians, this monastery is a pilgrimage site. On Sundays, whole families come to Gelati Monastery. After visiting the monastery, we set off for Gori. Via the main route, it is a little over two and a half hours’ drive. Along the way, we try to have lunch. The owner comes over with a menu. Luckily, there are pictures. We point to two images that look tasty, though we have no idea what we are ordering. The result is disappointing. One dish is probably something with liver, the other with fish. Neither tastes very good. Just past Gori lies the ancient rock city of Uplistsikhe. Over 3,000 years ago, this was an important trading center on the Silk Road. We can’t immediately find it. Someone points straight ahead, but not very convincingly. A boy crosses the street and asks in English if he can help. He points in the same direction. “You’ll come across it eventually,” he says. We drive through Gori. On the central Stalin Square, street races are taking place.

Georgia - The ancient rock dwellings in Uplistsikhe near Gori

Cars take turns drifting around a course. Fun to watch. Strange, though, that this is the same square where eight years ago Dutch cameraman Stan Storimans was killed by a Russian cluster bomb during the military conflict between Russia and Georgia. Today, only smoking tires are on the square. Uplistsikhe is a complex of cave dwellings stacked along the mountainside. It’s fun to wander through. A man with a gun over his shoulder warns us to be careful—there has been a sighting of a poisonous snake. Three men are searching for it. I watch my step more carefully and avoid the bushes. The church in Uplistsikhe is still reasonably intact. The Orthodox church was built by monks after Uplistsikhe was abandoned. For our final activity today, we visit the Stalin Museum. Stalin was born in Gori. In the museum, Stalin is portrayed as the man who made Russia great and put it on the map. Many Georgians compare that time with the present and conclude that the country is in much worse shape now than it was under Stalin. They seem willing to overlook the terror inflicted on the population and the thousands of deaths caused by the dictator. The collection—nothing is explained in English—is mostly a glorification of Stalin. As we leave, a boy approaches us. He is apparently a guide at the museum. He speaks good English. He shows us Stalin’s birth house and the train carriage he used to travel across the country. Very interesting to see. In the outskirts of the city lies our guesthouse for tonight. We are greeted warmly. There is no nearby restaurant for dinner, so we take a taxi back to the Stalin Museum for 1 Lari 26—not even 50 cents. After eating, we realize we no longer have enough Lari to pay for the meal. Today, we had tried several ATMs without success. Fortunately, we are able to withdraw money at the restaurant. Outside, we finally find an ATM that accepts our cards. Problem solved.