Kazakhstan > Spectacular Charyn Canyon

When we wake up, our Kazakh friends come by to ask if we’re suffering from the vodka. Not really. They ask if we want shashliks—they’re going to prepare them for breakfast. We pack up our gear and take down the tent. Meanwhile, many day-trippers arrive by bus. They are going to hike around the lakes. At our farewell with the Kazakh friends, we eat a shashlik as well. What hospitality! We eventually leave the site around eleven o’clock. We have to take the same route back as yesterday.

Kazakhstan - Camping near Kaindy Lake

Twice we cross the river again. From the first large village, the road improves. A good asphalt road leads us toward the Charyn Canyon area—a rugged rock formation carved by the Charyn River. Where our navigation indicates the entrance to Charyn, we wait for the motorcyclists. However, they have found the entrance to the canyon elsewhere. Because of poor network coverage, text messages arrive with significant delay. Calling isn’t possible at all. We are waiting for each other—but not in the same location. A German couple arrives, traveling in an overland truck. They have been on the road since August last year and plan to continue to China and Tibet. They are also looking for the canyon. We ask a passing man on horseback for directions. We understand that the path where we stand leads to a canyon, but that the Charyn Canyon itself is further on. We decide to drive into our canyon first. Through a riverbed, we go deeper and deeper into the canyon. On both sides are rugged rock formations, once carved by water. What a beautiful landscape. We don’t really have much time to enjoy it, though—we still have to find the Charyn Canyon itself. We ask for directions a few more times, but it doesn’t get much clearer. “It must be nearby,” everyone says. Not quite! When we finally receive the coordinates from the motorcyclists via text, it turns out the canyon is still 23 kilometers further. We drive there quickly. Unfortunately—hats on the road. Another police checkpoint. We understand from the gestures that our lights were not on.

Kazakhstan - The impressive Charyn Canyon

We turn on the lamps. One officer wants to see documents; the other says we can drive on. We figure it’s best to listen to the second officer. At the Charyn Canyon National Park, we meet the motorcyclists again. From the edge, we look down into the nearly three-hundred-meter-deep canyon. The canyon is sometimes called the “little brother” of the Grand Canyon in the United States. From various rock points, we have a great view of the canyon below. Everywhere you look, it’s beautiful. Because of the late start this morning and delays around the canyon, it is already half past five when we set off for Almaty. The distance is still about two hundred kilometers. Fortunately, the road is good, and we can make decent progress. At quarter to nine, we approach the hotel. We drive past the hotel entrance. When we turn around, flashing lights appear immediately—police. We had crossed a solid line. Through all their gestures, we understand that we’ve committed a serious offense. The officer wants to seize the driver’s license. We point out that he should just issue the fine in triplicate. On a piece of paper, he writes that he wants to settle it for 200 dollars. We offer him 200 tenga (less than a euro). When he asks for a counteroffer, we say we’ll go to the station with him to settle the fine and discuss his 200-dollar proposal. Nervously, he takes back his negotiation paper. He accepts the 200 tenga, and we are allowed to drive on. A hundred meters further is the hotel. It feels wonderful to have a proper shower again. In the evening, we go to eat at Shakespeare’s Pub—a recommendation from the Kazakhs in Kolsai.