Georgia > Tsminda Sameba Church Kasbeki

At breakfast, a friend of the owner speaks to me. He speaks a little German. He translates our travel plans to the owner, and both are impressed. Before leaving, we first have a photo taken with the car. We leave Gori and drive via the highway to Mtskheta. Mtskheta was the capital until the 6th century. Later, King David the Builder declared Tbilisi the capital, which it still is today. We are the first to pass the Samtavro Monastery. King Merian and his wife, Queen Nana, are buried in this monastery. The church exudes a reverent atmosphere. Nuns are busy cleaning the church. It is completely silent. The church is beautifully decorated with frescoes and icons. In the center of Mtskheta stands the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral. The cathedral is enclosed by walls, which were part of the former palaces of the kings of Kartli. Later, in the 4th century, King Merian converted to Christianity here and built a cathedral. This made Georgia, after Armenia, the second country in the world to adopt Christianity as its official religion.

Georgia - The walled Svetitskhoveli Cathedral

On the opposite side, on the hilltop, we see the Jvari Dome Church. The route there is not easy. Twice we drive in the wrong direction. Other drivers immediately gesture that we are wrong. Does this happen often with the unclear signage? From the Jvari Church, we have a beautiful view over the city of Mtskheta. In the valley below, we can see the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral. Inside the Jvari Church stands a wooden cross. This cross is said to have been placed by Saint Nino in what was then pagan Mtskheta. For this reason, it is now a pilgrimage site. From Mtskheta, we drive into the Caucasus Mountains via the Georgian Military Highway. For years, this highway was the only connection through the mountains to Russia. The road gradually ascends. We pass the Zhinvali Reservoir. By the lake stands an old, dilapidated Russian-looking monument. Its exact significance remains unclear to us. Via hairpin bends, we reach the ski village of Gudauri. Old Russian trucks crawl uphill slowly. It is a real challenge to drive fully loaded vehicles through the sharp turns. Today there is no snow on the slopes in Gudauri, only remnants from the past winter.

Georgia - Via a spectacular descent from Kazbeki Monastery

At the upper end of the village stands a striking but extremely dilapidated building. It is a kind of viewpoint. From the platform, we look deep into the valley. This is the highest point of the Jvari Pass—at 2,379 meters, the highest point of the Georgian Military Highway. Shortly after two o’clock, we approach Stepantsminda. Countless trucks are parked along the roadside for kilometers. They are waiting for the border crossing with Russia. Further along the route, there is no space to park. The police let a few trucks through at a time. We are allowed through without problems. The clouds already hang low in the mountains as we enter Stepantsminda. It will not stay dry today. We decide to skip lunch and first go to the Tsminda Sameba Church. The Tsminda Sameba Church sits over 300 meters higher on a mountain peak. The view of the church against the snow-covered peaks of Mount Kazbek is the most famous image of Georgia. As we turn onto the road, taxi drivers gesture that it is closed. Surprised, we ask how to get to the church. We are told to take a path about a hundred meters further. The path is no more than a rutted track.

Georgia - The Tsminda Sameba Church in front of snowy Mount Kazbek

Could this be the correct route? We follow the track and slowly climb. The road is poor. Carefully, we try to avoid the potholes and rocks. Minibuses carry tourists along the same route. It must be okay. Passing them sometimes is tight. In one hairpin, the road is so bad that we struggle to get through. All tires slip. We let two minibuses pass and watch how they handle the obstacles. That works. Upon reaching the top, we have a view of the Tsminda Sameba Church. Though cloudy, the view is magnificent—especially after such a harsh journey. The small church is beautifully decorated inside with frescoes. The monks are comfortably warm; the wood stove is burning. Outside, it is chilly at this altitude. What a remarkable location to build a church. The return journey is along the same route. We descend the slope carefully, taking no risks and especially not overloading Brutus. Faster-descending minibuses that travel this route daily are allowed to pass. A few kilometers past Stepantsminda, there should be a castle. But when the navigation indicates we are close, we find ourselves at the border post with Russia—the breakaway province of Chechnya, to be exact. This is not the intended destination. There is no castle here either. We turn back. In Stepantsminda, we stop at a cozy little hotel. Compared to our previous accommodations, the rooms are a bit pricey but fine. Outside, it has started to rain. Hard rain. We decide to eat at the hotel.