Mongolia > The Erdene Zuu Monastery

A watery sun shines as we open the curtains. At least it’s dry. It seems to have been a good choice not to go to the Erdene Zuu Monastery yesterday, but today instead. At nine o’clock we stand at the entrance gate of Erdene Zuu. The wall of the complex consists of 108 stupas.

Mongolia - The outer wall of Erdene Zuu Monastery

108 is a sacred number for Buddhists. During the communist period the monastery was closed and largely destroyed. The outer wall and a handful of buildings were spared. Inside the complex, three beautiful temples stand in a row. In the western temple are the Buddha statues of the past, the present, and the future. In the central temple is the young Buddha, and in the eastern temple the adult Buddha. In front of the temples lie the graves of Genghis Khan’s son and grandson. On the grounds there is also a temple dedicated to the Dalai Lama, a museum, and the Golden Stupa.

Mongolia - Camping near the Mongol Els sand dunes in Khogno Khan Uul Nature Reserve

At the edge stands the Tibetan monastery, which is still used by monks today. Although the Erdene Zuu complex must once have been much more beautiful, it remains a magnificent Buddhist structure. It is certainly one of the highlights of Mongolia. In Kharkhorin we are able to withdraw money today. The ATMs must have been restocked. It feels much better to have some local cash on hand again—we had barely three euros left. In a little café we drink coffee. Then we drive back to the hotel, pack our things, and leave Kharkhorin. Today we drive only a short stretch in the direction of Ulaanbaatar. Along the roadside lie the Mongol Els sand dunes—a kilometers-long dune area in the Khögnö Khan Uul Nature Reserve. We drive our car right up to a sand dune and set up the tent. Wonderful, with absolutely no one around us. In the distance are a few ger camps. As the sun slowly sets, we prepare our meal. A beautiful place to spend the night. In the evening by the campfire, camels graze on one side and Przewalski horses on the other.