Uzbekistan > Enchanting Khiva

At a quarter to nine, we are again standing in front of the gate. Nothing happens. Not at nine o’clock either. Time keeps dragging on. The only conclusion we can draw is that it is not actually an hour later in Uzbekistan. Dealing with the correct time remains a hassle. Just before nine, a soldier comes walking up to open the gate. We are received extremely politely. One of the ladies speaks remarkably good English. She helps us with the declaration form and the procedures. Our Landrover goes through the scanner. After that, probably the luggage does not need to be checked. Although I have already been told that everything is finished, I am called back inside for a form for the car. Meanwhile, I also show them our route map. Everyone is very interested in our itinerary. Finally, about an hour later, we enter Uzbekistan—our fifteenth country on this journey. On the way to Nukus, a car pulls up next to me. The man gestures that we are going the wrong way. He stops a little further along. He had assumed that we were heading to Khiva. When I show him on the navigation that we are going to Nukus, he is satisfied. In the city center, near the bazaar, we look for money exchangers. In Uzbekistan, there is an official exchange rate and a black market rate. The latter is far more attractive. We had expected to be approached automatically, but that does not happen

Uzbekistan - The impressive entrance gate of the old city of Khiva

. Asking once works and immediately a money changer appears. The rate for the euro does not seem very favorable to us, although we have no idea what a realistic rate is. We get 6,000 som for 1 euro. We decide to exchange only 50 euros. As we walk away from the bazaar, several people suddenly approach us. We negotiate a rate of 6,050—slightly better, but not much. After a breakfast of samsa, a pastry filled with meat, we drive to Khiva. The road, compared to Turkmenistan, is much better. Occasionally there are patches with potholes, but nothing like the huge holes we encountered yesterday. Interestingly, if we had been the first to drive this road, we would probably have rated it as very poor. Before the turn-off to Khiva, we need to refuel. At the gas station, the man points from his booth that he has diesel. Where? Which pump? He does not come out of his booth. A neighbor walks over and says he also has diesel. After agreeing on a price, 35 liters are measured out in a small shed and poured into the car using a funnel. This is one way to do it. A little further on, we encounter the first police checkpoint in Uzbekistan where we must stop. “Passport, car passport.” I have to walk along. At a table, all the information is registered. Four officers stand around. The man with the largest hat is just pouring tea. “Do you want some too?” he asks. We drink a cup together while the formalities are completed. Then we are allowed to continue. Around three o’clock, we drive into Khiva. Near the old city wall is a guesthouse. On the terrace, we order beer and some food. It is thirty-nine degrees and blistering hot. Khiva is an old city on the Silk Road. The walled historic old town of Khiva is well preserved. I pass through the West Gate and immediately see the colorful minarets, mosques, and madrassas (Quranic schools). One madrassa now houses a hotel. I wander among the beautiful buildings. Behind me, the sun slowly sets. The orange glow gives the city a special appearance. Souvenir sellers are packing up their goods. Children are playing football against a mosque gate. Many of the buildings are already closed. I can visit those tomorrow. We settle on the terrace of a restaurant in the middle of the old city and have dinner. Back at the guesthouse, I meet two young men from Ukraine. They are traveling by motorcycle from Kiev and are following practically the same route up to Kyrgyzstan. They have been on the road for a week. However, they average more kilometers per day, so they will likely reach Bishkek before us.