
Home > Turkey > From Amsterdam to Tokyo > Travelogue day 17
May 1 August 8 2016 (100 days)
Last night we were completely alone on the campsite. The owner had locked the gate yesterday. This morning, around eight o’clock, someone arrives to open it again. When we wake up, the sun is already shining on the tent. The sea lies calm—a beautiful scene. In the little shop, we get some bread, and with our own coffee, we have a fine breakfast. During breakfast, we discuss the route. We are heading to Trabzon. Near Trabzon, we want to visit the Sumela Monastery and take the D915 pass. The D915 is a hairpin-road along the mountainside. Because of the sharp turns, sometimes you have to “cut” the corners.
It seems most practical (and safest) to drive this pass from bottom to top. Therefore, we decide first to drive past Trabzon and enter the D915 one valley further. At the end lies the spectacular mountain pass near Bayburt. Tomorrow, we can drive back to Trabzon via the Sumela Monastery. While refueling, a truck driver enthusiastically asks where we’re going and if the jerrycans are filled. When he hears “Japan,” he immediately wants to take a photo of the car. Then he rushes to his truck to tell his friend. Further along at a small eatery, the owner wants to know everything about our journey. His son watches too. In hindsight, he probably should have paid more attention in geography class, because in Europe he only gets as far as “Servistan.” When we leave, we are hugged and given two cheek kisses. Through the D915 valley runs a fast-flowing stream, probably fed by a combination of snowmelt and recent rainfall. The road climbs quickly. At the turn-off to Bayburt, a sign warns of poor road conditions.
Roadworks are underway everywhere to widen the route. Some sections are completed, others are still rough dirt tracks. The final stretch climbs with sharp hairpin turns. As we pass a small village, someone gestures for us to stop. The route to Bayburt is “kapali,” which must mean closed, judging by the gestures. “Kapali, kapali!” We decide to continue a little further, knowing we will probably have to return the same way. The road gets worse, and in some bends, we have to “cut” the turn to make it. In low gear, our Land Rover climbs effortlessly. Another man by the roadside also signals that the route ends here. On the navigation, he points exactly to the hairpin section that is closed. Almost at the top, we see the road. A man here explains in Turkish that part of the route has collapsed. We cannot go further. However, he points to a newly built route a little way back. It is getting dark, and it begins to rain lightly. We decide not to take on this challenge and drive back to the town of Of at the start of the valley. A good choice, as the rain becomes heavier on the return. Just before the coastal road, the navigation directs us left. We drive down a side street to reach our hotel. It turns out our hotel is on the main road, but in the eastbound direction. To avoid having to drive tens of kilometers further before turning around, we are led along a back path. The path becomes unpaved and runs past houses in the mountains. Below us, we can already see the hotel. Once we can rejoin the highway heading east, it’s only a short distance to our overnight stay.