Azerbaijan > Crossing the Border into Georgia

We wake up in the caravanserai. Last night, the window was open, and the stray dogs treated us to a full concert. When I try to take a shower, only scalding hot water comes from the tap. A little later, the water turns cold. This cycle repeats. Occasionally, very hot water flows for a moment, but most of the time it’s cold. I decide to rinse off with cold water. Shaving will have to wait until tomorrow. In the restaurant, breakfast is ready— a simple meal with bread, various types of cheese, eggs, and tea. Altogether, a good start to the day. Near the hotel is the Sheki Khan’s Palace, which he had built in 1742 as a summer residence. Mehmet guides us through the palace, explaining the beautifully decorated walls and ceilings. The windows feature an elegant combination of wood and glass. No nails were used anywhere in the palace. Unfortunately, photography is not allowed inside, and each room is monitored by cameras. I will have to store the palace’s interior in my memory. After the visit, we leave Sheki and drive about two hours to the Azerbaijani–Georgian border. Between the border posts is a sort of no-man’s-land. I walk between two walls toward the Matsi River, which forms the border here. The border formalities go smoothly, and with a Georgian stamp in my passport, I enter the country. Just across the border, I exchange euros for Georgian lari. Yesterday, Maaike took a poll to determine lunch preferences. At a winery, lunch is ready. Before sitting down, we are given a tour of the buried clay pots where traditional Georgian wine is made—a method I have never seen before. The grape remnants left after tapping the wine are used to produce the strong spirit chacha.

Azerbaijan - The striking Palace of the Sheki Khan

During lunch, various traditional dishes are served, including pkhali—small vegetable puree balls in different colors. Just as I am about to order a bottle of local wine with a few fellow travelers, we are told we are almost ready to leave. We cancel the wine order, though dishes and coffee are still served. I could have finished that bottle in the meantime. The rush seems to be a recurring theme over the past few days. Everywhere we go, it’s only for a short time because we must move on quickly. I try not to get too annoyed by it. Tonight, we will stay in Telavi, a town in the Kakheti wine region. Before arriving in Telavi, we visit the church of Gremi. The church and the ruins of the nearby castle are strategically located on a cliff. We climb the stairs to the entrance of the complex. We will likely visit many more Orthodox churches during this trip. Late in the afternoon, we enter Telavi. On the western side of the town is the Chavchavadze family winery. Here we can visit the family’s former estate and taste wine. At the entrance, we can purchase a ticket, which includes a wine tasting. You can indicate how many glasses you want to try, though it’s unclear whether it’s a tasting sip or a full glass. The explanation is contradictory, but it seems to be a small amount, so we decide on three glasses. At the estate, the next tour is scheduled for half past five, and it is just five o’clock.

Azerbaijan - Georgian wine is traditionally produced in clay pots

It is suggested that we taste the wine first. The time is tight, making the tasting feel a bit rushed. Doing the tour in the other order would also be difficult because the estate closes at six. Today’s rushing was not in vain. We are served a glass of amber wine, produced in the traditional buried Georgian clay pots. It’s fun to taste this traditional wine, though the flavor is not remarkable. Georgia claims to have the oldest wine, but Azerbaijan and Armenia make the same claim. I quickly finish the third glass to make it back in time for the tour. The museum is located in the estate of the famous Georgian poet Alexander Chavchavadze. Inside, personal items from his life are on display. The interior dates from the early 19th century. At the beginning of the evening, we arrive at the hotel. Because another travel group is staying there, the hotel provides a buffet. Normally, dining is not possible at this hotel, and the buffet does not seem particularly appealing. The hotel is not located in the town center, so we walk over a kilometer to Telavi’s center. At a small restaurant, we order two versions of Georgian lobio—one with beans and one with cheese, prepared in earthenware pots. A fun and tasty choice. In the dark, we walk back to the hotel.

Azerbaijan - Traditional food in Telavi