Georgia > Via Gyumri to Yerevan

The last day in Georgia has arrived. Today we will cross the border into Armenia—the third country on this trip. In the room where we ate yesterday, breakfast is now ready. At nine o’clock, we depart. We pass the rock city of Vardzia and continue onto the main road. At Khertvisi Castle, we make a stop. This 10th-century castle sits beautifully atop a rocky outcrop and is still reasonably intact. Unlike the Akhaltsikhe fortress, the renovation here has not gone too far. For the best view of the castle, it is recommended to cross the suspension bridge. Because many people cross at the same time, the bridge sways back and forth. Sometimes I have to hold on tightly due to the rocking. The view is beautiful. Around eleven o’clock, we approach the border. The landscape begins to change, and the buildings appear simpler and more primitive. Nino explains that many Armenians live in this region. It seems that many people here make a living from agriculture. Hay is being gathered and stacked in tall, sloping piles. At the border, we thank the driver. It is uncertain whether we will see him again in a week. We also say goodbye to Nino, who we will definitely see next week. We walk to the customs checkpoint. Soon, I have the Georgian and Armenian stamps in my passport. On the other side of the border, driver Mateos is ready with a new bus.

Georgia - The Amenaprkich Cathedral in the center of Gyumri

We quickly get on board and drive through the Armenian countryside. The landscape appears more rolling but also barer. Where Georgia is mostly covered with trees, here there is little vegetation. The asphalt road contrasts beautifully with the surroundings. Just before one o’clock, we arrive in Gyumri, the country’s second-largest city. Armenia has only three million inhabitants, most of whom live in Yerevan. Gyumri was hit by a very severe earthquake in 1988, which killed thousands and destroyed a large portion of the city’s buildings. At Vartanants Square, the city center, stands the monument to Vardan Mamikonian, an important Armenian military leader. On the south side of the square is the Amenaprkich Cathedral (All Saints Church). The church is built from black and orange tuff, giving it a particularly striking appearance. The service in the church has just ended, which allows us to enter and view the interior. Armenia was the first country in the 3rd century to declare Christianity its official religion. The Amenaprkich Church has a layout more familiar to us, with an altar and pews. The church was severely damaged during the earthquake but has thankfully been fully restored. On the other side of the square stands the Cathedral of the Holy Mother of God (Our Lady of Seven Wounds). This entirely black church, built in 1874, is the most important church in Gyumri. We walk along the pedestrian boulevard to a small park. At a cafe in the park, we order lunch. We have some trouble explaining to the young man that we want to order drinks first and food later, but he brings his manager who speaks better English. After lunch, we walk a bit more through Gyumri, passing the Saint Nshan Church. This church is simpler but also beautiful. Then it’s time to head back to the bus. We still have about two to two-and-a-half hours to drive to Yerevan, depending on traffic. We quickly leave Gyumri and drive south.

Georgia - The famous Cascade stairway in Yerevan

By late afternoon, we approach Yerevan. Traffic congestion increases noticeably. Most Armenians live in cities, with about 50% in the capital. The city roads are not designed for such volumes. We move slowly from traffic light to traffic light. The hotel is on the edge of the city center. Yerevan is laid out in a circular design, which looks neat on a map. The hotel is located on the ring road. In the evening, we walk to the Cascade stairs. The monument is a massive limestone staircase, consisting of 572 steps, 50 meters wide, and 302 meters high. Within the cascade, beneath the outdoor steps, are seven escalators that rise the full length of the complex. The monument is beautifully illuminated. On the street in front of the cascade are plenty of restaurants. We choose one—a very good choice.