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Travelogue Caucasus Tour

September 13th - October 3th 2025 (21 days)


Armenia > Back to Tbilisi

Dag 19 - Wednesday, October 1, 2025

For the last time in Armenia, I select my breakfast from the buffet. Once again, there is a very good selection. At half past nine, we leave the hotel in Haghpat. We only need to drive a short distance to reach the monastery. The Haghpat Monastery, like the Sanahin Monastery, was founded at the end of the ninth century. Since then, the complex has been expanded several times. Even today, vendors are still setting up their stalls. We are among the first visitors of the day. Within the Haghpat Monastery complex are two churches. The gavits—the entrance halls added later in the twelfth century—are larger than the churches themselves. The main church is the Saint Nicholas Church, built in 976, featuring a central dome supported by four massive pillars, following the traditional Armenian cruciform basilica structure. It is no wonder this complex is on the UNESCO World Heritage list. From Haghpat, we drive for about an hour to the Georgian border. Leaving Armenia is straightforward; the luggage can even remain on the bus.

Armenia - The Haghpat Monastery is a UNESCO World Heritage site

Just before reaching the Georgian side, we say goodbye to Mateos, the driver. I walk to the Georgian customs, where Nino is already waiting for us on the other side. She will guide us for the final days in Georgia. Nino warns that there could be demonstrations in Tbilisi this afternoon. To avoid potential road closures, we drive to the hotel in the city as quickly as possible, arriving around two o’clock. Nino takes the group on a walking tour of old Tbilisi. Since we already took an extensive tour last week, we decide to explore on our own. First, we order lunch at a terrace in the old town. Walking through the narrow and often lively streets, we reach Freedom Square, which was formerly called Lenin Square. On the pillar in the center of the square stands the gilded statue of Saint George and the dragon, a symbol of Georgian courage and independence. On the northeast side of the square begins Shota Rustaveli Avenue, a wide boulevard flanked by massive Soviet-era buildings. We pass the theater, the opera house, and the parliament building. A small group of people is protesting in front of the building against the pro-Russian government.

Armenia - Freedom Square in Tbilisi

There appear to be no large demonstrations today, though a heavy police presence is noticeable. The boulevard continues to the Rustaveli Fountain, where the University of Tbilisi is located. On the square stands a statue of Shota Rustaveli, a famous medieval poet. We walk back along the other side of Rustaveli Avenue. By occasionally turning left and right, we eventually reach the Mtkvari River, from where we return to the hotel. In the evening, when we want to go out for dinner, it begins to rain. This had been forecast, and we have our rain jackets with us. We cross the bridge into the city center. Because of the rain, we are not too particular about which restaurant to choose. Right next to the clock tower, a table is available in a restaurant. This restaurant is associated with the puppet theater behind the clock tower. We accept that the prices here are relatively higher.

Boat trip on the lakeA boat trip on Lake Sevan in Armenia
Dining at SevanA shared meal on the shore of Lake Sevan
KhashlamaThe dish Khashlama is flambeed at the table
Old truckAs long as a truck runs it keeps being used in Armenia