Cuba > The Buena Vista Social Club

After breakfast—which was a bit meager compared to yesterday—we set off with the entire tour group for a bike ride through Havana. First, we walk to the bike rental on the Prado.

Cuba - A bike tour through the suburbs of Havana

At the rental shop, it isn’t easy to get 19 bikes ready. After a bit of waiting, there is finally a bike available for everyone. With some extra air in the tires and minor adjustments to the saddles, we’re ready to go. We first ride toward the Malecón, the boulevard along the coast. On the wide road, cars can easily pass us. Along the way, Abel points out the five-star hotel where the evening show will take place. The hotel is located in the Vedado district. Further along the boulevard, we pass the American section, where the large caricature of George Bush on the pavement is already quite worn. As we continue, we enter Miramar, the wealthier and quieter part of Havana. This gives a different perspective on the real lives of Cubans in the city. Very few tourists come here. We pass Avenida 5, once a prestigious wealthy neighborhood, now mostly home to embassies and businesses. We cross a river on a steel bridge—the cars use the tunnel, which is not accessible to cyclists. At a café near the Cementerio de Colón, we park our bikes for a drink. All the bicycles are placed very close together, with Abel keeping watch, as a good bike is highly sought after in Cuba, and the risk of theft is high. The nearby cemetery is one of the largest in Latin America. The immense Cementerio de Colón holds 800,000 graves and over 10,000 mausoleums. The cemetery is so large that we cycle through its streets.

Cuba - With approximately 800000 graves the Cementerio de Colon is one of the largest cemeteries in Latin America

Taxis and buses also drive through, which initially seems strange but is convenient given the size. From the cemetery, we ride back toward the city center and the Plaza de la Revolución. In the middle of the square stands a star-shaped obelisk, the José Martí Memorial. On the Ministry of the Interior building, there is the famous large image of Ché Guevara. Abel wants to cycle straight across the square, but the police do not allow it. At the parking area, he watches the bikes again while we take photos. We continue through some hilly streets toward the university. Because not everyone can easily cycle up the hills, we lose part of the group, but they are quickly found. On a slightly downhill route, we return to the city center and park our bikes at Parque Central near the Capitolio Nacional. The Capitolio is a copy of the Capitol in Washington, D.C. Around one o’clock, we return the bikes to the rental shop. It’s time for lunch, and Abel knows a nice restaurant. We walk through Havana with him, passing various charming restaurants (probably without commission for him). He seems to head toward the restaurant from the first evening, which we don’t think is a good idea. He changes the suggestion to a lovely restaurant with a courtyard that serves sandwiches and pizza.

Cuba - The starshaped obelisk at Plaza de la Revolucion marks the Jose Marti Memorial

Of course, a band performs here as well. The singer—a “Big Mama”—is so loud that she overpowers the band without amplification. She walks among the tables, inviting guests to dance, and I am the first to join… After lunch, we stroll through the souvenir market and settle on a terrace at Plaza de Armas (the book market square) for a Mojito cocktail. We stay on the terrace until about 5:30 p.m., enjoying a few rounds. Then we walk back to the hotel, while part of the group takes a taxi. In the evening, some of us go to the Buena Vista Social Club performance. Beforehand, on the recommendation of Anusca and Remko, we have Arabic food. We take a taxi, but it doesn’t stop at the intended restaurant, instead dropping us at another Arabic restaurant on the Prado. Initially, the prices seem very high, but the menu is in Cuban pesos; the average meal costs less than two euros. Ordering goes less smoothly. Instead of the requested steak, some receive chicken cordon bleu (also tasty), and one meal is missing. With limited time, we split the two chicken portions over three plates, solving the problem.

Cuba - The image of Che Guevara on the Ministry of Interior at Plaza de la Revolucion

In the end, we eat and drink for less than four pesos per person. We take a taxi to the Hotel Nacional de Cuba on the other side of the city in Vedado. A Lada drops us off at the five-star hotel. Inside, we are directed to the hall—or rather, a tent—for the Buena Vista Social Club performance. The hall is filled with tables, each with two chairs; dining is also possible at the front. The program is enjoyable but not extraordinary; the real Salsa swing is somewhat missing. The Cuba Libres (4 pesos each) taste excellent, and as we drink more, the evening becomes increasingly fun. There is limited space to dance in the back. Around 11:10, the performance ends. Outside, we take a Coco taxi (a small three-wheeled “egg”) back to the hotel. Two Coco taxis and one Lada taxi race along the Malecón back. At the hotel bar, we have one last drink and dance Salsa with locals. By 12:30 a.m., we go to bed.