Cuba > By horse to the ATM

In the morning, I slept in until nine o’clock. After showering, I had breakfast. At eleven, we gathered for a visit to the nearby caves. We enter the cave via a staircase. The path winds past various stalagmites and stalactites (but which is which?). At the end of the path, we transfer to a small boat and float along the underground waterway past the rock formations. Along the way, we receive some explanation about the shapes and what figures one might imagine in them. Before we know it, the boat exits the cave, and the tour is over.

Cuba - The Cueva del Indio partly visited by boat

All in all, it was fun, but not particularly extraordinary. We disembark at a bar. Abel suggests arranging horses to ride to Viñales to withdraw money. A fun idea, even though I’ve never ridden a horse before. Apparently, this isn’t a problem. The four of us set off toward Viñales, while the others choose a taxi. I quickly get the hang of braking and steering the horse, though accelerating is a bit unpredictable. The horse seems to decide on its own how fast it wants to go. Along the way, we enjoy a stunning view of the valley and rock formations. After following the road for a few kilometers, we turn right onto sandy paths. Through small trails, we arrive at a village where we take a break. We stop at a local house and are offered mango, pineapple, and coffee. We also get a tour of the house, kitchen, and surroundings. The coffee is so strong that we dilute it with water, much to the amusement of the residents. In the kitchen, we taste a type of potato prepared over a wood fire for dinner. Afterwards, we mount the horses again and head toward Viñales. Riding along dirt roads, we pass the now-harvested tobacco fields and cross a small stream. Slowly, we approach Viñales. Patrick’s horse stumbles and falls, bringing him down too. Fortunately, he quickly frees himself from the stirrups and is unharmed (the horse, too). Slightly shaken but otherwise fine, we reach Viñales. Here we leave the horses and look for a bank. The bank is easy to find, but exchanging money takes a long time. The cash is counted repeatedly—just for five bills. The clerk clearly doesn’t enjoy her work. With fresh bills in hand, we leave the bank three-quarters of an hour later and settle at a café terrace, enjoying one—or rather two—Cuba Libres.

Cuba - On the road between the rocks

We stroll a bit along the main street and then decide to find a taxi for the return ride. Before we can even voice our intention, a man approaches, offering an illegal ride to our hotel. After some negotiation between 9 and 10 pesos (which already seems too much), he takes us for 9 pesos in his old Lada. The doors are stiff, yet later—especially in the curves—they sometimes swing open on their own. To avoid the police, he drives through backstreets instead of Viñales’ main street—a fun little sightseeing detour. Back on the main road, he gestures for me to put on my sunglasses for the police. Whether this draws more attention is questionable. He drives quickly toward our hotel, and a few minutes later, we arrive safely at the entrance. He tries asking for ten pesos, but we don’t fall for it. Our group watches the whole scene from the pool terrace. In the evening, we gather at eight o’clock for dinner. Abel had arranged a meal with a local family (as yesterday), but the man didn’t show up. So we walk with the entire group toward the village from yesterday. Now, arriving unannounced and with twice as many people, Abel negotiates with the locals, and tables are quickly set up under a veranda. Just like yesterday, the meal is excellent. The food is prepared in different kitchens, and the beer is brought from all over the village. Everyone participates with enthusiasm. After dinner—cheaper, since Abel arranged it directly—we say our goodbyes and walk back along the dark road to our hotel. After a nightcap by the pool, we go to bed.