Cuba > Detour via Santa Clara

Today we leave Trinidad aboard a large luxury coach. The small buses are not available. We want to visit Santa Clara and the tomb of Ché Guevara. A few days later, on the route from Cayo Coco to Varadero, we would practically pass by, but there would be limited time, and the mausoleum is closed on Mondays.

Cuba - Monument commemorating the 1958 victory by Che Guevaras rebels over Batistas troops

Therefore, Abel tried to schedule the visit from Trinidad. This proves to be no simple task. The bus driver isn’t allowed to decide on a longer route, so an official order must be given. Abel contacts his agency, who then contact the bus company. The bus company informs the agency about the additional costs. They inform Abel, who informs us. We agree, and through the same channel the order is faxed to the bus company, which instructs the driver via radio — all within about twenty minutes. The bus departs for Santa Clara. First, we return to the highway. Normally we would have turned right toward Camagüey, but for Santa Clara, we turn left. The highway is wide and empty. Occasionally, some sections are still unfinished (and haven’t been worked on for years). On these stretches, traffic uses a single lane, which is sufficient. On the way, it starts raining for the first time this holiday. After just over two hours, we arrive in Santa Clara. The sky is still threatening, but fortunately it’s dry. We take a walking tour of the city center. Abel shows us the central square around Parque Vidal. We walk toward the monument commemorating the victory of the insurgents. In 1958, the rebels, led by Ché Guevara, derailed a train carrying government troops, defeating them.

Cuba - The mausoleum of Che Guevara in Santa Clara

This victory was the last straw for the Revolution. At the monument, several train cars are displayed with a small museum inside. Nearby, we visit the statue of Ché Guevara. Next, we drive to the Plaza de la Revolución just outside the city. Dominating the square is Ché’s mausoleum, topped by a more than twenty-meter-high statue of him. We visit the mausoleum and the nearby museum, which contains many photos of his life. Back in the center, we have lunch with a delicious pizza before setting off on a four-hour drive to Camagüey. The first part of the route is the same as the morning, but in reverse. It remains enjoyable to observe Cuban life along the way. Around half past six, we enter Camagüey. The bus drops us at the hotel, right opposite the station. The exterior is an elegant colonial building from around 1900. Inside, we find that the electricity is out in the city. In the lobby, we receive a welcome drink. With a flashlight, we are given our room keys, and each person receives a candle for lighting in the room. In addition to the electricity problem, Camagüey has a structural water issue. Cold water is available only during certain hours: 6:00–9:00, 12:00–15:00, and 18:00–21:00.

Cuba - The almost deserted wide highway

Hot — and truly hot — water is available 24 hours a day. As evening falls, I shower by dim light and try out the bed. At eight o’clock, everyone, armed with flashlights, gathers for dinner. We walk through the dark streets, where people are sitting outside. In a side street, at a restaurant terrace, we settle down. A candle lights the table. Due to the power outage, the menu is limited mostly to fish dishes. There is still a good choice, and the food is delicious. We sit on the terrace late into the evening, occasionally ordering another beer. At half past eleven, we leave the terrace for the hotel bar, where the lights come back on at half past twelve. After a final toast, everyone heads to their rooms — now with light!