Cuba > Eating in an illegal restaurant

Today we leave Havana. Departure for Viñales is scheduled for nine o’clock, which means packing our things. All packed, I join everyone for breakfast. Luckily, the buffet options are more varied today. At nine, we head toward the bus. The young man who helps load the luggage turns out not to be affiliated with the bus at all. He demands one dollar per suitcase. Angry, he knocks on the window because only a few people gave him anything. The driver could have made it clearer that he wasn’t supposed to help. We drive off toward Viñales, leaving the boy behind. Abel suggests doing a small program along the way for 20 pesos, including lunch. Everyone agrees.

Cuba - On the way we stopped for a drink by the swimming pool at a resort

We drive along the wide highway toward Pinar del Rio. There are hardly any cars on the road, but many hitchhikers, cyclists, horse-drawn carts, and ox carts. The highway is not entirely free of potholes either. The bus driver carefully navigates the best stretches of asphalt. Near Les Terasses, we visit an orchid nursery. Here we are given a tour of the natural garden with orchids and other plant species. At the nearby resort, we can order drinks at the pool bar, though service is extremely slow. After this stop, we continue to the village of Les Terasses, which is built in terraces for the plantations around the lake. The houses are also layered. The bus takes a rather meaningless loop through the village and returns via the same bridge without stopping. A little further along, we visit a coffee plantation. Although no longer operational, it provides a view of how coffee was processed and offers fantastic views of the Les Terasses valley. Unfortunately, it’s cloudy; it would have looked much better in the sun.

Cuba - The view over the Valley of Vinales with the mountain ranges in the background

Lunch is at a restaurant by the lake. On the veranda overlooking the water, chicken is served (what else?). By now it’s already half past two when we head back toward the highway to continue toward Pinar del Rio. From there, we turn off toward Viñales. The town has many charming, characteristic houses. Our hotel—or rather, our resort—is situated among the rock formations about eight kilometers past Viñales. The small apartments are nestled among the trees with a view of the pool. Naturally, one of the first things we do is try out the pool. In the evening, we plan to eat at the restaurant near the caves. Abel isn’t sure if the restaurant is open, and indeed, when we arrive, it isn’t. Geert asks across the street at a small house about a nearby restaurant. The man, a guard at the caves, knows of one about a mile and a half away—it belongs to his “sister.” He leads us there but has to change clothes first, switching his uniform for a t-shirt. His scooter drives ahead to announce our arrival. As we walk past the hotel in the other direction, Abel checks where we are going, keeping a close eye on us. He talks with our restaurant guide to find out where we are headed and whether it’s safe. The guide doesn’t seem very happy either, suspicious that Abel might be police. Abel doesn’t forbid our initiative but doesn’t seem thrilled either.

Cuba - Eating in the living room at a Cuban home

The small house is a 20-minute walk through a tiny village. The living room has been converted into a dining room for the occasion. Abel advises us not to drink the water; the meal is at our own risk. Photos are allowed, as long as Abel isn’t in them. He sits on the veranda. Our dinner is probably completely illegal, which adds to the thrill. The options are lobster, tuna, chicken, and lamb. After a while, the dishes are brought to the table, and I thoroughly enjoy the meal. Abel later explains that whenever we ordered a beer, men went into the village to fetch one from someone’s house, which explains the different brands. Presumably, our meal was prepared in several different homes. By eleven o’clock, we are finished. Far too much food was prepared—enough for the family to eat for days. Almost at the same time, the lights go out (generator failure). By candlelight, we receive the bill. It’s a relatively high price, but we’re happy to pay it. We say goodbye to the family and walk back to the resort in the dark. Along the way, I enjoy the sounds of nature and the amusing spectacle of countless fireflies. Abel has been waiting and escorts us back, still not very talkative. At the pool, we have one last drink. When the bar is about to close, we quickly order a second round.