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Travelogue Mozambique Malawi and Zambia

528 November 2009 (24 days)


Zambia > Attacked by an elephant

Dag 19 - Monday, November 23, 2009

At night I enjoy the sounds around the tent. I clearly hear hippos grazing in the grassland next to our tent. The distinctive sighing sound of the hippos can be heard close by. I try to look outside through the mesh of the window. I see nothing, but I still hear them splashing into the water. In the distance I also hear the hyenas calling. Wonderful sounds to fall asleep to. In the morning we go on a new game drive. It is an optional program, and I have decided to join both drives.

Zambia - The elephant wants space and charges towards the Land Rover

In the park we see an elephant up close. Sylvester drives the jeep to the water’s edge so that the sunlight falls better for the photos. The second vehicle also arrives. When a third vehicle comes driving up, the elephant finds it too crowded. Surrounded by three cars, he walks straight toward us with his ears pressed flat against his body. Sylvester starts the engine and drives backward. We can go no further and the elephant keeps approaching. Sylvester suddenly accelerates toward the elephant. The elephant retreats. Sylvester turns the car slightly to the right and the elephant passes us, just two or three meters away on the left side. A tense moment. Further on we see a group of cubs playfully walking through the mud. The lionesses lie a little farther ahead, right in the middle of the road. We drive around them along the grassy edge.

Zambia - A cub less than a month old among the other lions

The cubs also come walking along, together with an adorable little cub only a month old. After the break we go in search of giraffes. They are difficult to find. Sly tries the smaller tracks. We see lions, many birds, elephants, and even a little snake. Finally, on the way to the exit, we see a giraffe with her young one. The small giraffe is suckling from its mother. We have lunch again at the campsite. In the afternoon we go on another game drive. We had agreed to leave an hour earlier this time. Yesterday’s evening program hadn’t been so successful. Before the game drive we take a group photo. The photo is taken quickly because the weather is changing. Shortly afterward a heavy downpour breaks out. We take shelter under the awning. Good thing we are not in the open vehicle now. The rain lasts half an hour. The campsite is flooded once again. At half past three the jeeps arrive. Because of the rain I don’t really feel like going anymore, but once we are on our way it turns out to be fun again. Israel also joins us. He has traveled a lot, but has never done a game drive. Proudly he sits in the front of the jeep. Due to the rainfall we can only drive on the main roads. This hampers the leopard search. We drive along the river. We see impalas with four young, monkeys, and more. Many animals struggle to walk through the soggy clay. Their hooves are caked with mud. Our jeep also skids regularly. A herd of elephants crosses our path and heads to the river. The riverbank is so slippery that they slide down. They lower themselves on their hind legs and slide down the slope. The herd of elephants makes its way to the villages on the opposite bank in search of mangoes. After dusk falls, we go looking for nocturnal animals again. We are tipped off that a male lion is lying near the dead hippo. Sylvester quickly drives there. The lion lies calmly at the roadside. Because of the twilight it is difficult to take a good photo, but the sight is magnificent.

Zambia - Due to heavy rain its become slippery The elephants lower themselves on their hind legs and slide down the riverbank

Fifty meters farther on, the lionesses with cubs are lying down. The male roars into the night. The youngest cub roars back and walks toward its father. We are standing right between the male and the lionesses. The cub walks right in front of our vehicle. The mother follows her young. Ten meters past our jeep she stretches out across the road. Two other lionesses settle on the road in front of and just to the right of our vehicle. The sand of the road is warmer than the grass. We are stuck. Sly steers the jeep through the grass past the lions. As we continue driving we come face to face with two giraffes. The animals struggle to walk through the muddy clay. One giraffe hesitates whether to walk ahead of our jeep or to wait. He cannot turn back because of the trees, so he slips and slides through the muck. His legs slide over the clay. For giraffes, mud is dangerous. If they fall, it is hard for them to get back up and they can break something, making them an easy prey for predators. Fortunately, this giraffe makes it safely across. Farther on, in our headlights, we see another grazing hippo and a genet. Sadly, we don’t see a leopard. Back at the campsite dinner is ready. Even though Israel was in the vehicle with us, the other travel companions have prepared the meal.

Bridge over LilongweThe wooden toll bridges connect the market stalls on either side of the Lilongwe River
HamerkopA Hamerkop looking for small fish in Lake Malawi
Sunset Lake MalawiThe sunset over Lake Malawi from Cape Maclear Malawi
Shower VilanculosThe shower area surrounded by a reed screen Wonderful showering in nature