Zambia > Crossing the border to Zambia

In the morning we drive out of Lilongwe, heading toward Zambia. In about two hours we reach the border. Just before the border we stop for a toilet break. I collect the coins from my pockets and make a boy happy with them. A little later we arrive at the border. Clearing customs in Malawi goes smoothly. We walk about a hundred meters further to the Zambian customs, where a visa must be purchased for fifty dollars. All passports are collected to speed up the process. While we wait, a heavy rain shower passes over—the first rain of this holiday. We are traveling just on the edge of the rainy season.

Zambia - Charcoal being sold directly along the road

Especially in Zambia, this increases the chance of rain showers. Ironically, it begins as soon as we reach the border. After about an hour, all formalities are completed for both us and the truck. We drive into Zambia. Bas collects all our Malawi notes and exchanges them at a currency office just across the border. We had spent slightly too much in Malawi, because I get 960,000 Zambian Kwacha in return. Unfortunately, not quite a millionaire—converted, it’s only about 150 euros. As we drive further into Zambia, it rains on and off. The truck is not completely waterproof. Water leaks through the roof in some places, and some of the sleeping mats in the back do not stay dry. Large puddles form outside. The water does not drain from the reddish sand-clay ground. One advantage: thanks to the rain, the dirt roads we are driving on are no longer dusty. After about four hours of driving and bouncing over the sandy roads, we arrive in Luangwa. Here we visit a handicraft shop where Trail Textiles are made and printed. The factory itself is closed on Saturdays, but the shop is open. From there we drive the final 25 kilometers to South Luangwa National Park, located along the river of the same name.

Zambia - Children waving goodbye to us at Tribal Textiles in South Luangwa

At half past four we arrive at the Wildlife Resort campsite. The owner is waiting for us. Due to the rain, the path to the campsite has become very muddy. We switch to safari jeeps, while Aron scouts to see if he can drive the truck along the path. Aron dares it and drives the truck through the wet clay. There are also puddles at the campsite. We choose the higher ground to set up our tents, keeping in mind the paths of the wild animals. Hippos may graze along the riverbank at night. Occasionally, elephants and even lions come into the campsite. We are therefore absolutely not allowed to keep any food in the tents. From our tent we have a view of the river. In the distance, hippos are resting in the water. In the evening we eat under the shelter at the campsite. The light attracts insects. The first heavy rain of the season is also the signal for termites to take flight and start new colonies. Thousands upon thousands of termites swarm around the lamp. Large ants are everywhere. The termites search for a mate, shed their wings, and go in search of a new location. We decide to go to bed early in the tent, where there is no flapping around.