Malawi > Feeding sea eagles on Lake Malawi

A day in Cape McClear. In the morning, after breakfast, we go on a hike in Lake Malawi National Park. The original plan was to hike to the top of the mountain, but we prefer a three-hour walk without steep elevation. This is all possible.

Malawi - The beautiful sandy beach at Cape Maclear on Lake Malawi

We leave the lodge and turn right, walking through the village street. We pass the Baobab tree in the center and shortly after, the MGozo Lodge. On the north side, we leave the village and pause at the Missionary Graves. Here lie missionaries who died in Malawi, many from malaria. At the entrance to the National Park, we buy an entrance ticket and enter the park. We follow the mountain ridge and walk between large boulders. In the park lies an abandoned hotel from the 1950s. Travelers used to stay here on their way from England to South Africa, as seaplanes at the time couldn’t cover the distance in a single flight. Even Queen Elizabeth once stayed here. Nowadays, the hotel has fallen into ruin, and the monkeys have taken over the building. Via the beach, we arrive at Otters Point—a beautiful spot with clear water. Around sunset, otters appear here, hence the name.

Malawi - Children from Cape Maclear playing in Lake Malawi

Otters Point is a great location for photos. We return to Chembe via the Lake Malawi National Park Museum. Only back at the campsite do I notice how hot it has become. We retreat into the shade of the large mango tree. The water of Lake Malawi looks inviting, but due to the presence of the Bilharzia parasite, it’s better to avoid swimming. After lunch, we walk into the village of Chembe. The fishing village has over 10,000 residents, mostly living in thatched houses. Around midday, in the blazing sun, the streets are quiet. Still, children and people on their porches wave at us. The beach is busier. Fish is drying, children play in the water, and women are doing laundry. We watch a fisherman repairing his net. When I want to take a photo, he proudly sits on his carved canoe.

Malawi - An African Fish Eagle hunting for fish in Lake Malawi The fish eagle has a wingspan of two meters

A big smile appears when he sees the result. In the afternoon, we board a small boat and cross the lake to West Thumbi Island. Near the island, some bread is thrown into the water. Hundreds of small colorful fish fight for a piece. The boatman even lifts a fish out of the water with his hands. We continue sailing clockwise around the island. Various fish eagles are already perched in the trees, waiting. The man at the front of the boat whistles and throws a fish into the water. From the tree, a fish eagle swoops down in a glide. With its powerful talons, it grabs the fish from the water and carries its prey back to the tree. We try another fish. Not all the eagles take it. Sometimes they stay in the tree, or their prey is snatched away by kites and hammerkops. The eagles snatch the fish so quickly that it’s nearly impossible to photograph them. I make several attempts before deciding to put my camera away. I simply enjoy the spectacle. Around sunset, we sail back to the beach. We have a beer at the bar. The purchased nuts aren’t tasty, but the boys on the beach are delighted. Luckily for them.