Zambia > Face to face with the lions

When I come out of my tent in the morning, discarded termite wings are lying everywhere. Especially around the lights, the ground is littered with the two-centimeter-long wings. Even the sinks in the washrooms are completely filled with them. Remarkable that this phenomenon happened precisely last night. Originally, we were supposed to have a walking safari in South Luangwa National Park, but the ground is too soggy to walk on.

Zambia - A lioness in South Luangwa National Park

Instead, we go on a jeep safari. At six o’clock we drive into the park with two vehicles. We ride with Sylvester, also called Sly. As we set off it drizzles a little, but it soon clears. We drive to the bridge to enter the park. What makes South Luangwa National Park special is that there are no fences around it. The river forms a natural boundary, and to the north there are mountains. But hippos, monkeys, and elephants regularly cross to the other side of the river to look for food on the campsites or in the villages. I had mentioned that I would really like to see lions up close. Right after we enter the park, I am rewarded. Five lionesses are lying right next to the road. One lioness wanders around, no more than two meters from the vehicle. They pay no attention to us.

Zambia - Hippopotamuses walking through the river in South Luangwa National Park Zambia

Just as one of them yawns, I click my camera. A perfect shot. Sylvester explains that there are several prides living in the park. The males often wander on their own, while the lionesses rest during the day. As we continue, we soon see many animals. Zebras, impalas, and of course warthogs. I find it amazing. It seems like behind every tree there’s another animal. A herd of buffalo crosses, a hyena scurries away, monkeys and elephants come right up to the vehicle. Birds are plentiful too: kingfishers, bee-eaters, a Tawny Eagle on the road, and a Bateleur in a tree. Around half past ten we return to the campsite. Israel already has brunch ready for us. The rest of the afternoon we take it easy, reading a bit and enjoying a drink in the bar. At four o’clock we go out again for a second round. Sylvester steers the jeep down a narrow track and we follow a trail through the grassland. In the distance we already see two other cars. Under a tree lies a group of seventeen lionesses. They are resting in the shade and barely look our way. It is extraordinary to be so close to these animals in an open vehicle. By the river we spot hippos and encounter some elephants. Around six o’clock the sun sets. With a searchlight we go looking for predators that are mainly active at night.

Zambia - The beautiful Grey Crowned Crane in Zambia

Naturally, we hope to spot a leopard. Andrew assists Sylvester, operating the lamp. With impressive speed he sweeps the light across the bushes. From the reflection of the eyes, he can tell if predators are present. He also tries to avoid shining the light on daytime animals, as it blinds them. We don’t see much game. We come across a hare, frozen in fear in the light, a small mouse, a civet cat, and a bushbaby in a tree. The lamp attracts swarms of insects. Sitting in the front row, I catch a lot of them in the open vehicle. Andrew, standing in front, is absolutely covered. Apparently it is especially bad today. Soon it is itching everywhere. I put on my rain jacket so the bugs don’t crawl all through my clothes. The fun wears off a little. Around half past eight we return to the campsite. I shake out my clothes thoroughly. Even my backpack turns out to be full of insects. Before putting it in my tent, I give it a good shake as well. At dinner there are also plenty of bugs, but fortunately fewer than yesterday. Just as I scoop up my food, I get bitten by large ants. Two sharp stings in my right foot. Since I don’t know exactly where the ants are, I finish my plate with my feet up. I’ve had enough bugs for today. We move to the bar and stay there until last call.