Italy > The Nuraghe civilization

This morning feels a bit cooler. It is cloudy above the lake. Just to be safe, I put on my sweater when we head to the breakfast room. Today we are going to visit the archaeological sites around Arzachena. At the end of the Bronze Age, about fifteen hundred years before Christ, the Nuragic civilization arose in this area. They came from southern France and the Iberian Peninsula. Across the entire island, they built Nuraghi—granite stone defense towers. One of these towers is the Nuraghe Albucciu. When we arrive at the remains of the tower, we discover several excavations in the area. We can buy a combination ticket for multiple locations, all close to each other. We decide to purchase a ticket for four sites. The first, Nuraghe Albucciu, is located across the road. We reach the complex via a pedestrian tunnel. We see the remains of what must once have been a fortified dwelling. Via a narrow staircase, we reach the upper floor, where living quarters were located. The lower, cooler rooms were used for storage. A few hundred meters further lies the Tomba di Giganti di Moru (giants’ tomb). The Tomba di Giganti di Moru consists of a long rectangular burial chamber that was originally covered by large stone slabs. Now, only one slab still lies over the grave. The stones that once stood in front of the grave have also disappeared. By car, we drive a few minutes to the next site: the Coddu Vecchiu giants’ tomb. Coddu Vecchiu is one of the most impressive and best-preserved "Tomba dei Giganti." The tomb is still fully covered, and large upright stones close off the tomb at the front.

Italy - The Coddu Vecchiu giants tomb is one of the best preserved

It is remarkable that this could be built over three thousand years ago. The last place we visit is the nuraghe La Prisgiona. Unlike the first Nuraghe tower we saw this morning, this Nuraghe consists of one central multi-story residential tower surrounded by three round corner towers. Although there are more archaeological sites nearby, we decide to stop here. We head toward Olbia, about twenty kilometers away. We arrived here with the ferry the day before yesterday. Around Olbia, there are also Nuraghe excavations. We visit the sacred water well on the northern side of the city. Around the archaeological Sa Testa well, there is a serene silence. We are the only visitors to the water well. The ticket booth is still closed. A stone staircase leads to a covered pool at the well. In the Bronze Age, fresh drinking water was found here. Water still stands in the well today. We continue to the center of Olbia. Unfortunately, the parking lot on the boulevard is full. Using the navigation, we try to reach another parking lot. We are directed through streets we are officially not allowed to enter. Luckily, signs indicate this ZTL zone is not active. This zone is only accessible to permit holders. After some detours, we arrive at the station, where there is a parking lot with paid parking. We walk into the city center. The center consists of narrow streets mostly laid out in a grid pattern.

Italy - The ancient Nuraghe tower residence had multiple floors

Many shops are open, and there are pleasant terraces in the center. Wandering around, we arrive at the Chiesa di Apostola church. A striking church due to its colorful dome. The church dates from the Middle Ages but was completely restored and rebuilt several centuries later. Beautiful paintings decorate the ceiling. In the shopping street, we sit on a terrace. We order a sandwich and something to drink. Then we follow signs to the Basilica di San Simplicio. The church lives up to its name. Inside, it is sparsely decorated—perhaps unworthy of being called a basilica. The basilica is near the station where the car is parked. Our last stop today is the Castello di Pedres, a castle on a granite rocky point on the south side of Olbia. When we arrive by car, we see the remains of the castle. The tower stands out beautifully against the blue sky. Here too, the ticket booth is still closed. We head toward the castle without a ticket. A stone staircase of boulders leads us to the Castello di Pedres. It turns out to be quite a climb. Not much remains of the castle. The square tower and some walls are largely restored. It is mainly the beautiful view over the surroundings that is special. In the distance, I see Olbia and the sea.

Italy - The colorful dome of the Chiesa di Apostola church in Olbia

We carefully descend again. Near the castle is also a giants’ tomb of the Nuraghe. The Tomba dei Giganti Su Monte de s'Abe can be visited on foot. Here too, a row of upright stones stands in front of the tomb. Only the largest stone that closed the tomb is missing, so the contents of the burial chamber are clearly visible. We have seen enough archaeological sites for today. We drive through the mountains back to Sant’Antonio. This time we enter the village from the other side, giving us a better view of the center. We drive to our accommodation by the lake. The owner greets us enthusiastically. We order a beer and sit in the sun in front of our room. When we enter the restaurant in the evening, it turns out no table has been reserved. We had assumed this would happen automatically. Quickly, a table is set for us. The owner apologizes that he doesn’t have a table by the window. “I thought you wanted to eat in Sant’Antonio,” he apologizes. We had thought about that, but eating at the hotel is easier and has been fine so far. We choose the fish menu: a four-course meal. Afterward, the television is specially set for us to watch the preliminary round of the Eurovision Song Contest. We had asked why we couldn’t watch the Italian channel in the room. This is only possible in the bar. We keep watching until the Dutch entry has performed. Then we go to bed.