Italy > The Maddalena Archipelago

It’s wonderful to wake up with a beautiful view over Lago del Liscia. The sun is already shining on the hills across the lake. In the breakfast room, it’s still a bit chilly—just a little too cool to eat on the veranda. After breakfast, we set off for Palau, a town on the northeast coast. We arrive in Palau just before ten o’clock. We drive straight to the ferry for the island of Maddalena. A man gestures for us to keep moving. “Hurry, the ferry is leaving soon,” he says. “Do you already have a ticket?” “No.” “We can buy one on board. We keep your passport as a deposit. It will be safe and you keep it with you on the ferry,” he assures us when we look doubtful. We quickly drive the car on board. The ferry is almost full. The ramp lifts behind us. At the ticket counter, we pay for the trip and decide to buy a return ticket right away. That’s easier. It does mean we have to return with the same company. For safety, we note the departure times. Next to the ticket counter, the passports are laid out. After twenty minutes, we arrive on Maddalena Island. The ferry docks in the town of the same name. Right next to the harbor is a parking lot. The free lot is full, so we pay for parking. From here, we can walk into the old town of La Maddalena. The picturesque town has a lively harbor, colorful historic buildings, and narrow streets. We wander through the alleys. Sometimes we have to step aside to let a car pass—there isn’t much room. We reach the Chiesa di Santa Maria Maddalena. The ochre-yellow 18th-century church is dedicated to the island’s patron saint, Saint Mary Magdalene. Inside, the church is simply decorated. At a souvenir shop, we meet a Dutch family. Their boy, about five years old, looks surprised that we speak Dutch too. Immediately, he asks if we also suffer from mosquito bites, showing his red-spotted arms.

Italy - The ocheryellow church of Maddalena

We continue exploring La Maddalena until we reach Forte Sant’Andrea. The fort, built on a granite rocky outcrop above the town, is closed. We descend again to the harbor. Luxury yachts and local fishing boats are moored side by side. At the quay, we order coffee. Around noon, we leave La Maddalena and drive to the northern side of the island. Here are beautiful bays. We stop at a small parking lot along the road. From here, a narrow path leads through the vegetation. Could this lead to Spiaggia di Cala Spalmatore? We carefully descend further. Indeed, we arrive at the intended little beach. On both sides, the beach is surrounded by rocks, so hardly anyone is at this idyllic spot. We unroll our towels and settle on the sand. The sun is shining brightly. After about an hour, we climb back up to the car. A little further along is a small bar by the bay. We order a sandwich and a drink. While enjoying this, we look out over the water. We drive back to La Maddalena via the other side of the island. We arrive well in time for the three o’clock ferry, and even have to wait for half an hour. At three o’clock, we drive the car onto the ferry. In twenty minutes, we sail back to Palau on the other side. We still have some time. We choose a route to our accommodation via the northern coastal road. Although it is a detour, the route goes through the mountains and along the coast. This way, we also pass some narrower mountain roads. The asphalt is sometimes in poor condition. We carefully avoid the potholes. Along the coast, we have views of the sea and the rugged coastline—a magnificent sight.

Italy - Its quiet at the beach of Spiaggia di Cala Spalmatore

At a gas station, we stop to buy an ice cream. From here, we drive back to Sant’Antonio through the mountains. The mountain route climbs steeply and then descends again with sharp bends. Along the way, we pass Luogosanto. We notice from the signs that there are many churches here. Why would there be so many churches? We stop at one of the historic churches. It turns out the area around Luogosanto used to be an important pilgrimage site. We follow the walking path to the Chiesa di San Leonardo. Nearby lie the remains of the Castello di Balalana. The path goes upward. A staircase carved out of the rock takes us higher and higher. At the top, we reach the remains from the 12th century of one of the oldest fortresses of medieval Sardinia. Just behind the castle lies the small church of San Leonardo. The church, built in 1080, is one of the few Romanesque churches on the island. Unfortunately, the entrance door is locked. The climb was perhaps longer than expected, but it provides a nice glimpse into the history of this area. Around six o’clock, we return to Hotel Valkarana. There is a menu available again in the restaurant today, but we opt for the à la carte option. It tastes great. The owner comes by personally to ask how we like the food.

Italy - The small church of San Leonardo in Luogosanto