France > The Citadel of Bastia

At breakfast, the owner tells us he was up early. Both his sons had to go to Ajaccio for a rugby event. They had to catch the bus from Porto-Vecchio at six o’clock. Proudly, he shows a photo of the boys in rugby gear. The oldest is thirteen, the youngest eight. After breakfast, we say goodbye to him. We set the navigation for Bastia in northern Corsica. Our boat will depart from there to Toulon tonight. Originally, the crossing was to be from Ajaccio, but last week we received news that this ferry service was canceled. As an alternative, we were rebooked for a trip from Bastia to Toulon. The ferry from Bastia leaves two hours earlier, but otherwise it doesn’t matter much. We follow the main road along the east coast. Along the coast, the route is fairly flat, so the road has fewer bends. This also makes it easier for freight traffic. As a result, this region has relatively more industry. After two hours’ driving, we arrive in the Bastia area. First, we drive to the church Eglise Saint-Michel de Murato. This 12th-century church is a typical example of Pisan-Romanesque architecture, characterized by the use of white limestone and green serpentine stones arranged in alternating checkerboard patterns. During the period when Pisa ruled Corsica, many churches were built. Later, relief decorations were added around the windows. The bell tower was raised in the 19th century. When we enter the church, it looks simple and dark. Only a limited amount of light enters through the small windows. On the way to Bastia, we pass Olmeta-di-Tuda, a small mountain village with tall granite stone houses and narrow streets.

France - This 12thcentury PisanRomanesque church in Murato

We stroll among the houses. The village seems deserted. The only place where we could find something to drink is closed. The Saint-Césaire chapel is also inaccessible. We decide to continue to Bastia. We park the car in the garage under the Citadel. Right opposite the entrance is a terrace. When we order coffee, it turns out to be a Turkish teahouse. But we can get coffee. The owner speaks English with a heavy French accent. Although we have difficulty understanding him, he wants to know where we are from, what we have done, and especially whether we liked Sardinia or Corsica better. For him, Corsica, of course. When we walk through the Louis XVI gate, we enter the old town within the walls of the citadel. The Citadel of Bastia is a historic fortress built in the 14th century by the Genoese, who ruled Corsica at the time. The location of the citadel on a rocky promontory by the sea made it an ideal defense against attacks. The narrow streets and cozy terraces give this district a pleasant atmosphere. In the Rue de Notre Dame stands the Saint John the Baptist Cathedral.

France - The gate of the bastion in Bastia

The interior of this 17th-century cathedral with Baroque architecture is beautifully decorated. From the edge of the citadel, we see the Old Port. The harbor is full of pleasure boats and sailboats. Along the quay, there are terraces. The two towers of the Église Saint Jean-Baptiste rise above the district. The church is the largest on Corsica. The Baroque interior, with a high vaulted ceiling and beautiful altars, is impressive. The streets behind the church form the historic center of the old town. Narrow streets filled with cafes and tourist shops. In the middle of this area is an oratory. We are surprised when we enter this religious monument. This oratory is dedicated to the Immaculate Conception of Mary. Finally, we arrive at Place Saint Nicolas. Here stands a statue of Napoleon depicted as Julius Caesar. The image of Napoleon as Julius Caesar looks somewhat strange. The modern gold-colored statue of a gorilla next to it looks just as odd. On a terrace, we order a burger. Because we’re not exactly sure how the evening on the boat will go, we choose a meal between lunch and dinner.

France - The city of Bastia reflected in the harbor water

After lunch, we walk back via the Old Port and the Jardin Romieu to the parking garage. When we arrive by car at the harbor, it’s a bit unclear which line we should join. There is no one giving instructions. We choose a line and still have enough time to switch if needed. Two boats are moored at the quay. One from Corsica Lines, and the Corsica Ferries boat has just arrived. The cars in front of us start moving. An employee directs us to our boat. All cars are lined up in rows to board more easily.

France - The oratory is dedicated to the Immaculate Conception of Mary

Meanwhile, customs come by. The trunk must be opened briefly, but nothing else. Our ticket is scanned, and we receive a sticker on the windshield. After some time, a barrier opens and the rows of cars start moving. However, this is only to form another queue further on. This is not the line for the just-docked ferry. Our boat is only now arriving. This means it will take a while before all cars have disembarked. We wait patiently. Around six o’clock, we can board. The staff points us to parking deck two, the lowest deck. Luckily, we have no rush tomorrow, because this probably means we will be among the last to leave the ship. We take the things we need for one night on board and look for cabin 5118. A cabin with two beds and two extra fold-down beds. It seems a bit cramped to stay here with four people. While exploring the ship, the boat starts moving. When we check our ticket, we find a voucher for 35 euros to spend on board, probably because of the rebooking to Bastia. At the bar, we order a drink with this credit as Bastia slowly disappears from sight.

France - The boat trip from Bastia to Toulon