France > The Menhirs of Filitosa

The weather is somewhat cloudy today. It even looks like rain is in the air. Today we are going to visit the southwest coast of Corsica. For this, we drive quite a distance toward the capital, Ajaccio. Due to the rugged mountain landscape, the main roads on Corsica wind through the mountains. Nowhere is the road straight. This also makes it relatively time-consuming to cover distances across the island. While driving through the mountains, it starts to drizzle lightly. However, it is not enough to wash the dust off the car. The dark clouds do make the landscape look gloomier. After about an hour’s drive, we arrive in Sartène, a mountain village with notably tall granite stone houses. It has also rained here. Fortunately, it is dry as we walk into the town. Shops are just opening, and terraces are being set up. On the Place Porta square stands the Église Sainte Marie de l'Assomption. Inside the church hangs a wooden cross with chains. During the Procession of the Catenacciu on Good Friday, a penitent carries the cross with heavy chains around his ankles. On a terrace opposite the church, many Sartenesi are sitting drinking coffee. Outside under the veranda, there is no space left. We order our coffee inside—a typical local café.

France - An ancient Roman bridge near Sartene

We wander a bit through the narrow streets of the town. Just outside Sartène lies an old Roman bridge: Spina Cavallu. The arch of the bridge reflects beautifully in the water. The bridge dates back to the first two centuries AD when Corsica was under the Roman Empire. The bridge has been restored later. We head toward Filitosa. Here lie the oldest excavations in Corsica. The archaeological site of Filitosa contains more than a dozen menhirs, upright stones often carved with human faces and weapons such as daggers and swords. These menhirs are among the most remarkable prehistoric artworks in the Mediterranean region. When we enter the archaeological site, the sun is shining fully again. Because of the rain this morning, it is oppressively warm. We look at the menhirs, the remains of old towers, and the museum. After the visit, we order a sandwich on the terrace. Filitosa was the farthest attraction for today. We drive back via the main road to the area around Sartène.

France - One of the five menhirs under the olive tree at Filitosa

Here we turn off toward the Cauria plateau. Around this location, menhirs and tombstones have also been found. We park the car at the Dolmen de Funtanaccia. This burial chamber lies along a circular walk past three historic sites. It’s fun to see all three. The menhirs of Stantari are the first we encounter. A row of upright stones in a line. Further on stand the stone pillars of Rinaghju. Finally, we visit the Fontanaccia dolmen. This dolmen consists of large upright stones supporting a flat capstone. The capstone is about three meters long, making it one of the largest dolmens in Corsica. The tomb dates from the Bronze Age, about 3000 to 2000 BC. For today, we have seen enough culture; we drive to Roccapina Beach. At the turnoff awaits a surprise. Although the navigation shows two and a half kilometers to go, many people park here.

France - A megalithic tomb of upright stones topped with flat capstones

When we ask why, it turns out it’s because of the bad road. We take the risk and drive down the dirt track. We drive slowly between the potholes. It is understandable why people don’t want to drive here, but walking the distance is quite far as well. We arrive without problems at a parking lot a few hundred meters from the beach. Here we leave the car and walk the last bit. It is no surprise that the beach is quiet. The beach lies beautifully tucked between two rocks. On one of the hills, there is a rock shaped like a lion’s head. The beach itself is scattered with seaweed, which makes it less attractive. We can’t imagine calling it ‘the most beautiful beach in Corsica.’ We lie down on the sand for a while and paddle in the seawater. At quarter past five, we carefully drive the car back over the dirt track to civilization. It is then another forty-five minutes’ drive to our accommodation in Maora. In the evening, we eat rotisserie chicken at the restaurant.