Italy > The Costa Smeralda beaches

At six o’clock, something is announced in the hallway. Both in Italian and English, but completely unintelligible. The expected arrival time in Olbia is seven o’clock. To be ready on time, we quickly take a shower in the small washroom. When we want to go to the car, the parking deck is still closed. This deck is not accessible while the ferry is still sailing. From deck ten, we can see the ferry entering the port of Olbia. We patiently wait until the ferry is docked. Our patience is further tested because, since we are parked on the highest deck, vehicles on the lower decks must disembark first. Around quarter past eight, we drive onto Sardinia. We haven’t had breakfast yet. We set a coffee bar on the navigation system—a small bar just off the main road. Shortly after, the navigation announces we have reached our destination in an industrial area of Olbia. The small hut we stand before must be Bar da Piero. Inside, we are greeted in reasonably good English. “Are you from the United States?” we are asked. We order a sandwich and coffee. Meanwhile, people come in for coffee at the bar. A little further on, we refuel the car. We are getting used to paying at a pump before filling up. The tank fills painfully slowly. No idea why. Luckily, our Hyundai’s tank isn’t very big. We set course for Costa Smeralda. Costa Smeralda is the collective name for Sardinia’s “Gold Coast.” This is where all the wealthy Sardinians gather. In the 1960s, investors bought a coastal strip of over 50 kilometers and developed it into a destination for the international jet set. We park the car at the beach of Capriccioli.

Italy - The rocky beach of Capriccioli

Here lie the most beautiful bays of Costa Smeralda. It’s unclear whether we have to pay at the parking lot. Italians say the parking meter doesn’t work and that payment is not necessary. Probably true. When we arrive at the beach, there is nobody there—only white sand and blue water. The bay is squeezed between large rocks. That’s why almost no one is at this idyllic spot. We move on to the second beach. Here, too, it’s still quiet. A few people stroll along the beach. We return to the first beach, lay out our towels, and settle in. I test the seawater with my feet. It’s still too cold to swim. Meanwhile, it’s getting busier around us. More people find a spot on the beach. Around eleven o’clock, we decide to leave. We drive on to Porto Cervo. Porto Cervo is a luxurious destination known for its exclusive marina, stylish boutiques, and high-end restaurants. It attracts many celebrities and wealthy people every year. Here, too, we can park for free. A bystander tells us paid parking only starts in June. We walk to the harbor. Porto Cervo seems like a sequence of narrow passages, stairs, and alleys. It’s a bit of a maze. We try various stairs and alleys. The streets are very quiet. When we reach the sea, we don’t see the luxury yachts we’ve heard so much about. The marina is actually a few hundred meters further. We walk there along a path. Many yachts are still in winter storage.

Italy - The uniquely designed church of Porto Cervo

Only a few large yachts are moored. On the way back, we visit the Parrocchia Stella Maris, the church of Porto Cervo. A white stucco church on a hill. Built in the 1960s, it combines modern architecture with traditional Sardinian elements. At the quay, we order a sandwich and something to drink. We accept the fact that prices in this town are somewhat higher. After lunch, we drive back a bit to Spiaggia del Principe, another special bay on the Costa Smeralda. We have some trouble finding the beach—or rather, getting the location to work on the navigation system. We make a big loop around the golf courses, only to end up in the same spot. We should have gone the other way. From the parking lot, a narrow walking path leads to the lower beach. From a distance, the beautiful clear water and white beach are already visible. What a stunning environment. As our last stop, we set course for Hotel Relais Valkarana in Sant’Antonio. The navigation system doesn’t recognize the location. We manage to select a road in the village. The route goes through the mountains. Nowhere is the road straight. The route goes up and down with sharp bends. Cars behind us think we drive too slowly around the corners. Sometimes they tailgate us. Too bad for them—going faster really isn’t possible. When we arrive in Sant’Antonio, we don’t see the hotel. It turns out the hotel is located a bit outside the village. Via a narrow path, we reach the accommodation by Lago del Liscia lake. A beautiful location. We have a room with a view of the lake. The hotel also has a nice swimming pool. The pool water is still chilly, the receptionist warns. We take our chairs out of the car, order a beer, and sit in the sun on the grass in front of our room. We look out over the lake and surrounding mountains. We don’t have many alternatives for dinner. We decide to eat at the hotel’s restaurant. We can choose à la carte or a four-course fish menu. We opt for the latter. Together with a glass of wine, it tastes great.