
Home > Italy > Sardinia and Corsica > Travelogue day 7
May 521 2024 (17 days)
In the hotel basement, a breakfast buffet is set up. It takes a moment to get used to the new products and choices. Especially the bread selection is somewhat limited. Still, we manage to put together a good breakfast. We walk along the boulevard towards the old historic center of Alghero. We want to take a boat trip to the Neptune’s Grotto, a cave complex on the west coast of the island. Yesterday, we were advised to arrive at the harbor about an hour before departure to buy a ticket. When we arrive at the harbor, several boats are docked at the quay. Another company also has a boat that departs earlier. Why wait then? The ticket is one euro more expensive, which we accept. We take a seat on the upper deck. Shortly after ten o’clock, the boat leaves Alghero harbor. The boat sails against the wind. We are lucky and sit sheltered near the pilot house. Other passengers put on jackets and sweaters. After about forty minutes, we arrive at the cave. There are two ways to visit the cave: by boat or via a 600-step staircase carved into the cliffs. The stairs are clearly visible from the sea. The boat sails close to the rocks. There is no pier to dock. The skipper holds the boat in place while everyone leaves the boat via a gangway.
Every hour, an organized tour through Neptune’s Grotto starts. The group consists of boat passengers and people who arrived on their own via the stairs — quite a large group altogether. The explanation given at the front is audible through loudspeakers throughout the cave, so everyone can take their time to admire the beautiful stalactite caves. The Grotta di Nettuno was discovered in the 18th century by local fishermen at the foot of the Capo Caccia cape. The cave is famous for its impressive formations of stalactites and stalagmites. These limestone formations were formed over thousands of years by the slow deposition of calcium carbonate. The formations reflect in the still water of the underground lake, Lago Lamarmora. After 45 minutes, we are back at the entrance. The boat is already waiting. We quickly board again and sail back to Alghero. On the way, we pass other boats bringing visitors to the cave. Back in Alghero, just behind the city walls, lie the Palazzolo — luxury mansions built in the 16th century showing features of Sardinian Gothic and Renaissance architecture.
The palaces have a stately appearance with imposing façades and elegant details. At a terrace on Piazza Civica, the street with the various mansions, we order coffee. We have already seen much of the old center yesterday. On the way back to the hotel, we pass the Chiesa di San Francesco. The church is open for viewing for a fee, but the ticket office is closed. We understand it reopens at four o’clock. Siesta? We decide not to wait. The nearby Chiesa di San Michele with its colorful dome is also closed. This church does not appear to be open for visitors. We walk back to the hotel. In the afternoon, we drive towards the Regional Natural Park of Porto Conte. Here we chose the Spiaggia di Mugoni beach, a beach along the road with parking facilities.
We park the car on a grassy field. The beach is fairly busy. Many families choose this location on this Saturday afternoon. We lay down our towels to enjoy the beach and the sun. We don’t stay long. The sun is strong. At the terrace of the beach bar behind us, we order something to drink. In the distance, at the edge of the bay, we see the Torre del Port del Comte, an old defense tower. We drive there. Inside the tower is a museum. We decide not to visit this small museum, also because the tower roof is closed due to the wind. We walk around the tower and look out over the bay. Then we drive back to Alghero. In the evening, we walk back to the center. The boulevard is lively and busy. We return to Piazza Civica, the street with the mansions. At one of the restaurants, we order something to eat. When we walk back, we see a beautiful glow from the setting sun above the sea. The rock of Neptune’s Grotto stands out nicely.