Indonesia > Walking Around Gili Air

It rained heavily during the night. The rain seems to be the tail end of a storm that had earlier passed over Bali. The bathroom is partly outdoors, and the floor is wet from the rain. Just as I turn on the shower, the power goes out. The water stops as well—probably because it needs to be pumped. I wash myself a little using bottled water. This morning, I’m going snorkeling and swimming in the sea, so the shower isn’t a big deal. At eight o’clock, I show up for breakfast. Because the sky is heavily overcast, Stickman advises against snorkeling. When it’s cloudy, he explains, you see little color underwater, and rain makes the water murky. We decide to postpone the snorkeling trip until tomorrow. Instead, we walk around the island of Gili Air. Right next to the hotel are several run-down buildings, likely hotels damaged in earlier storms. It gives the area a slightly messy and impoverished look. Following the sandy path along the coast, we pass numerous charming seaside restaurants, all empty—clearly still the low season. There are also many places offering diving and snorkeling trips. We walk to Turtle Point, a spot where turtles are often seen. When I enter the sea with my snorkel mask, I quickly notice the limited visibility.

Indonesia - A mostly unpaved path circles the island, passing all the eateries

The water is murky, and I can see only a few meters ahead. I swim farther out where the water is deeper, as turtles don’t stay in the shallows. The waves here are choppy, and visibility is no more than three meters. With no sunshine, the coral appears dull and dark. I decide to swim back to shore, making sure to go with the waves because the current is strong. Without too much trouble, I make it back. We continue walking around the island. From time to time, we have to step aside for horse-drawn carts. No motorized vehicles are allowed here, and the carts carry tourists and their luggage to the pier. Many cycling tourists also pass by, riding around the island. It’s not easy to cycle through loose sand in some spots. On the island’s west coast, with views of nearby Gili Meno, we stop for drinks. Around noon, we’ve completed the loop—about a seven-kilometer walk. I return to my bungalow, which has a swimming pool right in front. The pool winds around so that all bungalows border it. I swim a lap past all the bungalows, then settle on a sunbed right in front of mine, which is actually placed in the water.

Indonesia - Taking a break by the pool on Gili Air

In the afternoon, I walk to the center of Gili Air and pass a barber shop. There’s only one customer ahead of me, so I decide to get a haircut. Barber Mike speaks hardly any English, but by pointing at the pictures on the wall, I can show him how I’d like my hair cut—or so I think. When Mike starts using the clippers, it becomes very short. Luckily, it turns out fine. Although I’ve never had the sides of my hair this short before, it doesn’t look bad. With my new haircut, I order coffee and cake, as I haven’t eaten since midday. The bakery’s terrace is next to a sports bar, where a Formula 1 race is playing on a big screen. I move over, order a beer, and watch the race. I end up chatting with two Dutch girls who are traveling around Bali and the Gilis for three weeks. Even after the race ends, we keep talking. In the evening, I have dinner with travel companions at the beach. We start with one table for three, but other group members join, and the staff keeps adding more tables. In the end, almost the entire group is there. The Satay Ayam tastes excellent.