Indonesia > The Wooden Sultan's Palace

It rains heavily during the night. Fortunately, it’s dry when I wake up. I’ve slept well and haven’t been bothered by mosquitoes. I take a shower and get dressed. In the restaurant, the breakfast buffet is ready. The selection of toppings is a bit limited. I take one slice of bread with egg and another with jam. At 9:30 we take the bus to the center of Sumbawa Besar. The resort is quite a distance from the town. In the center stands the wooden sultan’s palace: Istana Dalam Loka, as it is called in Indonesian. The palace was built in 1885 by order of the 16th sultan of the Dewa Dalam Bawa dynasty, Sultan Muhammad Jalaluddin Syah III. The sultan was the ruler of the Sumbawa regency. The palace is made entirely of teak wood. During Indonesian independence in 1945, the regencies lost their power, and the palace was no longer used as a royal residence.

Indonesia - The wooden sultan's palace in Sumbawa Besar

Restoration work is underway, so it is uncertain whether we can visit. Luckily, the gate is open. I take off my shoes and step into the traditional wooden palace. Due to the renovations, most halls are empty. I wonder what the palace would have looked like in the sultan’s time. I walk through the various empty rooms and climb the steep stairs to the upper floor. It’s special to see this historic palace from the inside. The palace is built on stilts. Old photographs show that floods have occurred here in the past.

Indonesia - The fish is sorted at the market

To my eyes, all the pillars seem crooked. I hope the palace won’t collapse one day. A few streets away from the palace lies the Pasar, the market. It’s busy with motorbikes buzzing around the market hall. Inside, there are many small stalls selling all kinds of goods. Chickens are either ready for sale or still being chopped into pieces. Fish are neatly arranged in trays, waiting for a buyer. Many people want to know where I’m from and what my name is.

Indonesia - The pool with a sea view

When they hear, a broad smile appears: “Ah, Belanda!” (Dutch!). By the end of the morning, we drive back to the resort. There’s not much else to do in Sumbawa Besar. In the afternoon, I take a dip in the pool. As I dry off on the edge, I see dark clouds approaching and hear thunder. Before the first drops fall, I return to my bungalow and sit on the veranda under the small roof. In the evening, a buffet of local dishes is served. The buffet is in honor of iftar, the moment when Muslims can eat again after sunset. There’s even a family here especially to enjoy an elaborate meal.