Indonesia > By Ferry to Lombok

It is still dark when the alarm goes off at six o’clock. I quickly take a shower and pack my things again. At half past six, I report for the breakfast buffet. Normally, the buffet starts at seven, but since we have to catch the ferry to Lombok today, it opens half an hour earlier. After breakfast, we leave Sumbawa Besar and drive westwards. We pass along the coast and through green rice fields—a beautiful route. After about two hours, we arrive at the coast in the town of Laboean Mapan. From here, the ferry departs to the island of Lombok. Not long after we arrive at the port, a ferry pulls in. The bus joins the queue of waiting vehicles. A little later, we drive onto the ferry. Passengers are not allowed to stay on the bus during the crossing. I climb two flights of stairs and find myself in the passenger area. There appears to be a small business section with more comfortable seats and another section with simpler ones. I don’t get the impression that anyone is enforcing this, so I take a seat in one of the more comfortable chairs. Even so, the seat is still quite hard. Around me are many locals making the crossing. The crossing to Lombok is expected to take two hours. Many people try to get some sleep—a good way to pass the time. There is no open deck. On the sides, where the boat is open, there’s a strong, cool breeze. After about two hours, we approach Lombok. The ferry slows down and even seems to stop completely. In the distance, we can see other ferries still loading and unloading, while others are waiting their turn.

Indonesia - It's a two-hour sail between Lombok and Sumbawa

There is a queue of ferries waiting to enter the port. After more than half an hour, it’s finally our turn. The captain turns the ship so that the cars can drive straight off. So far, the weather has been cloudy with the occasional drizzle. As soon as we drive onto Lombok, it starts to rain a bit more heavily. Good thing we’re on the bus. The summit of Mount Rinjani, the island’s highest volcano, is shrouded in clouds. The travel itinerary also included an option to climb the volcano, but during the rainy season, this hike cannot be done. It’s only possible from April onwards. It takes us about an hour to drive to the village of Pringgasela, where lunch is ready for us. The village is also known for its handwoven fabrics and sarongs. Lunch is served in a traditional gallery. Colourful cloths for sale hang all around. The lunch consists of several tasty local dishes—the most delicious and elaborate lunch so far. After the meal, the owner, Erwin, takes us on a walk through the village. Several women are hand-weaving fabrics on their verandas—a very labour-intensive job. Back at the gallery, the visit ends with coffee and tea. Across from the shop stands the mosque. The call to the Friday midday prayer sounds loud and long. “Welcome to Lombok,” jokes Stickman.

Indonesia - A woman weaving on her veranda

He warns us that we’ll hear the call from our hotel as well tonight. Around four o’clock, we arrive at the hotel in Tetebatu. The hotel is next to some rice fields and can be reached via a narrow path. The staff carries our luggage. Several cottages are situated around a garden with a swimming pool. I have a room on the first floor. Everything looks very new and well maintained. I order a beer and drink it on my private veranda while updating my travel journal. A wind picks up, and the large leaves of the banana tree and the palm fronds sway vigorously. Since Tetebatu is at a higher elevation, I notice it’s a bit cooler here. For dinner, I put on long trousers and a sweater—a wise choice. I order satay with homemade peanut sauce and fries, which tastes excellent. When I go to bed, the call to evening prayer sounds from several mosques. The call lasts well over an hour. Why would it go on for so long? It almost seems like the mosques are competing to see who can call the longest. I don’t let it bother me and quickly fall asleep.

Indonesia - The lovely accommodation in Tetebatu