Indonesia > The Rice Fields of Ruteng

I wake up to the sound of people walking down the hallway. I see that it’s almost time for my alarm to go off. I take a shower and repack my luggage. The wet clothes from yesterday are dry. Carefully, I walk down the slope from the monastery again. I’m carrying my travel bag now, and I don’t want to slip and fall again. Today we’re driving to Labuan Bajo, the town where we were stranded over a week ago when our flight was canceled. Just outside Ruteng lie vast rice fields. We take a walk. The local guide, Eki, explains how the rice is planted and harvested as we walk among the fields. The most important thing, he says, is to keep the rice moist during its growth.

Indonesia - The road leads through a mountainous volcanic landscape

We walk along a narrow embankment next to a rice field. Due to the recent rain, the clay soil is wet and slippery. I carefully follow the guide, but my hiking boots are quickly caked in mud. The original plan was to continue on to a village further away, but that isn’t possible today. Roadworks mean the bus can’t get there. We walk down into the valley and then back again. On the way back, we also visit a small chapel. It’s still under construction. Before we truly set off by bus, we stop by yesterday evening’s restaurant to pick up our packed lunches.

Indonesia - Sunset view from the resort

Then we leave Ruteng and head west. After about an hour, we stop at the spiderweb rice fields. A steep climb gives us a view from above. The fields here are laid out in circles, divided into wedge-shaped sections. Stickman explains that a circle belongs to a clan, and within the circle, each family has its own wedge. If there are multiple family members, the wedge is divided again. This creates the spiderweb pattern in the fields. This, Stickman stresses, is the only place in West Flores where you can see this. From here, it’s still more than three hours’ drive. Harris navigates the bus through the mountains, climbing up and winding down through sharp bends.

Indonesia - Sunset by the pool in Labuan Bajo

Halfway, we stop to eat our packed lunches. Today’s options are nasi goreng or mie goreng. Unfortunately, no spoons were included. I eat my mie with my fingers. Around four o’clock, we arrive in Labuan Bajo. The Luwasa Beach Resort is located by the sea, though still a few kilometers from the center. I quickly take a shower and drop off a few shirts for laundry. At the beach bar, I order a beer. At half past six, there’s a knock on my door — someone has come to my room for a massage. My masseur is visually impaired, though that doesn’t affect his work. In an hour and a half, he loosens my muscles. In some places, it feels uncomfortable, even painful — probably where the muscles are extra tight. After the massage, I order a chicken cordon bleu at the beach bar.