Indonesia > Swimming in the Rangko Cave

Today is a Friday in Labuan Bajo. A few days ago, I looked into what there is to do in this little town. Besides all the tours to the Komodo Islands, a visit to the Rangko Caves was also recommended. You can swim in this cave. At seven o’clock, I’m the first to show up at the breakfast buffet by the beach. I have an omelette and drink my tea, while gazing out over the sea. It’s cloudy, and I wonder whether it will stay dry today. Since it usually rains in the afternoon, I booked the tour for the morning. At eight o’clock, Mario picks me up at the beach resort. We drive to the centre of Labuan Bajo to pick up two more participants: Piter and Miguel. Piter is originally from Poland, Miguel from Mexico. Both now live in Australia and are travelling through Indonesia together. Tomorrow, they fly back to Australia. The first stop is at Amalia Hill. From the top of the hill, there’s a view of the peninsula and various bays. Because it’s a bit cloudy, I find the view slightly underwhelming, but the two Australian guys assure me that I’ll see truly stunning views on Komodo. We drive another half hour north and arrive at a small beach, where a boat is ready for us. While Mario stays behind, a three-man crew welcomes us. We’re told we’ll first sail to Boleng Beach for some snorkelling, which will take about twenty to thirty minutes.

Indonesia - By boat to the Rangko Cave

After that, we’ll go to the cave. The engine roars to life, and with plenty of noise, we set out to sea. Out in the open water, the sky begins to clear, and the sun even breaks through. We pass the beach at the Rangko Caves and reach the snorkelling spot. I put on my mask and lower myself into the water. The water is crystal clear, though I can’t quite judge how deep it is, so I avoid jumping in. The moment I look underwater, I’m surrounded by gorgeous coral in many varieties. Among this beauty swim countless stunning fish. This place is just as beautiful—perhaps even more so—than my snorkelling experience in Tujuhbelas National Park a few days ago.

Indonesia - A staircase leads into the Rangko caves

I follow a school of about a hundred fish, all nibbling at the coral. They attack one spot en masse, then, after a while, move on to another. I can’t tell which fish is leading the group. The whole scene is happening less than two metres below me—magnificent to watch. When all three of us are back on board, we sail a short distance back to the beach near the caves. I follow Gala, one of the crew members, along a narrow path between the trees. Due to recent rainfall, the path is slippery, and it feels like walking through clay. Soon, large clumps stick to my shoes, making it even slipperier. The entrance to the cave is barely five metres wide. Gala explains that at this time of year, the sun doesn’t shine into the cave, and the rainwater makes the cave’s water a bit murky. He leads us inside. With my slippery shoes, I carefully make my way down a built-in ladder to the water.

Indonesia - Swimming in the waters of Rangko Cave

Moments later, I plunge in. Around me, stalactites hang from the ceiling. A lone bat quickly seeks a safe hiding place deeper in the cave. What an extraordinary place. When I swim too far from the opening, it quickly becomes dark. The underground water supposedly extends for kilometres into the cave, but you’d have to dive at certain points to continue. After a few laps, I climb out again. We have a bit of time left, so on the beach, I order a cola and let my swimming trunks dry in the sun. Then, we sail back to the starting point. I figure my trunks are dry enough to sit in Mario’s car, but my Tevas are still soaked and muddy. I put them in a plastic bag and place my towel under my feet to keep the car somewhat clean. Back in Labuan Bajo, I wish the two guys a safe flight back to Australia and say goodbye. A little later, I also say goodbye to Mario at my hotel. In the afternoon, I settle into a beach chair under a parasol and order a club sandwich. I enjoy lounging in the shade and also swim a few laps in the pool. In the evening, I have dinner in the centre of Labuan Bajo with a few fellow travellers. We take a taxi to the restaurant, and the driver gives us his number for the return trip. From the restaurant, there’s a lovely view over the town and harbour at night. When we’re ready to go back, it turns out the driver’s number doesn’t work—luckily, he’s parked right in front of the restaurant.