Jamaica > Hiking in the Blue Mountains

The alarm goes off. I quickly open the curtains. The weather is radiant. In the mountains above Kingston, I can see some clouds. I wonder if it will stay dry up there. Today I’m going to visit the Blue Mountains. Yesterday there was still a flash flood warning for the mountain roads, making them impassable. Fortunately, during breakfast, the news comes that the roads are passable again today. I quickly set off by bus. In Kingston, we switch buses. The bus I’ve been traveling with the past few days is too large for the winding mountain roads.

Jamaica - A walk through the Blue Mountains

Today I travel with a slightly smaller bus. Mr. Brown is my driver for the day. Just outside Kingston, the road begins to wind upward, hairpin turn after hairpin turn. I gain altitude quickly. In every curve, the horn is carefully sounded to warn oncoming traffic. From this height, I have a beautiful view of the capital. I can see the peninsula and Port Royal in the distance, and above me, the clouds hang low. I pass Fort Newcastle, an army barracks at around 600 meters altitude. I can already feel that it is cooler at this height. The main road runs through the training ground, and just past the barracks, I dive into the clouds. It starts to rain lightly. At the visitor center of Holywell National Park, it’s misty as well. The clouds hang low between the trees. I leave my backpack in the bus and put on my rain jacket just in case. Jeremy welcomes me and guides me through the nature park. This park is located in the Blue Mountains, which are part of the World Heritage List. I follow Jeremy on a walking tour through the park. He explains that the area is famous for Blue Mountain coffee. The coffee beans are grown above 600 meters, giving them a unique flavor. The coffee is mainly exported to Japan. Jeremy also explains that, in principle, the park tries not to intervene in nature. However, exceptions are made for certain non-native plants that are invasive, which they try to control. I follow the waterfall trail, a narrow, slippery path made slick by the rain. I must be careful not to slip.

Jamaica - The museum about Bob Marley in Kingston

Because of the low-hanging clouds and mist, the forest feels magical. I accept the rain as part of the experience. The waterfall itself is a five-meter-high stream—fun to see. From here, I walk back to the visitor center. A little lower on the mountainside, the bus stops at the EITS Café (Europe In The Summer). On the terrace with a view of the valley, I taste the Blue Mountain coffee and have some soup. I’m now below the cloud line again and back in the sunshine. In the afternoon, I head to the Bob Marley Museum. I have the choice to visit the museum or take a walk through Kingston. Although I’d like to do both, I choose the latter. For safety, I leave all valuables on the bus. I’m dropped off at Tropical Square, a lively square full of shopping malls. I stroll through the streets. There’s plenty of activity. I look at the stalls and shops. Sellers address me as the “general,” as it’s customary in Jamaica to give someone a nickname. It could have been worse. On one square, schoolchildren sing, accompanied by blaring music—a kind of local event. I pass the clock tower and walk back via the bus station. It’s nice to get a feel for the atmosphere of the capital. Kingston isn’t known for safety, but I haven’t felt unsafe at any point. Shortly after six o’clock, I’m back in my hotel room. I decide not to go into Port Royal for dinner, since there is only one restaurant anyway. I dine at the hotel restaurant instead. On the terrace by the water, I finish the evening with a beer. A pleasant but strong breeze blows across the bay—a big difference from yesterday.