Jamaica > A visit to a community

When I want to take a shower, I find that one of the knobs is broken. It’s the cold tap. The shower only provides hot water—too hot to stand under. I go back to the first room where the light didn’t work last night and use the shower there. At 7:30, I am supposed to be picked up to be taken to the first hotel.

Jamaica - Fresh fish for sale at the market

No one shows up. Patricia probably doesn’t even know I was rebooked last night, and I don’t have her contact details. At ten minutes to eight, a car from the hotel arrives—they had gone looking for me. I quickly load the luggage. At the Royal Reef Hotel, I see all the other travelers again. After the delayed breakfast, we drive into Montego Bay. Montego Bay is the second largest city in Jamaica, after the capital, Kingston. At a supermarket, I buy water, cola, and some cookies. I leave Montego Bay and head south. The main road winds through the mountains. In the bends, Kelly, my driver, honks to announce his presence. Heavy trucks also travel the route, and passing sometimes only just works on the narrow, winding road. I can hardly imagine this is the main route. At Mountain Vibes, the bus turns off. Sandra gets on. She lives in this community and tells me about the village as the bus slowly climbs between the houses into the mountains. In the community, everyone helps each other, she says.

Jamaica - Reggae music played during the visit

There are schools, a small hospital, and churches—lots of churches. Jamaica has the most churches per square kilometer, she explains. This is an official world record. Each denomination has its own building. At the oldest church in the community, I take a look. It’s a simply furnished Anglican Church. Across the street stands a more modern church of the Seventh Day Adventists. A service is in progress. For them, Saturday is the holy day. Everyone is beautifully dressed. A man outside gestures that I am welcome to come in. He shakes my hand and enthusiastically talks about the many churches in Jamaica. A little further on, I visit a simple Great House. This traditional wooden Georgian house dates back to the plantation era. Around it is a lovely garden. I am offered pieces of fruit from the garden while reggae music plays from a small speaker. I also visit an artist. Her garden is filled with painted objects, all brightly colored. She is very enthusiastic and greets me with a big hug. Back on the main road, I stop at a local restaurant, “Border Jerk.

Jamaica - Diving near the coast of Jamaica

” Jerk is Jamaica’s specialty: a specially spiced chicken or pork dish. I choose chicken. Further south, I reach the sea again. I pass the Peter Tosh Museum. Right at the provincial border, there are countless food stalls selling “ackee and saltfish.” Although this is also a specialty, I’ve had enough for now. I walk past men cleaning fish on the beach. In the afternoon, I arrive in Black River, the town where the river of the same name flows into the sea. I stroll past a few colonial houses; many are in disrepair. Black River was once Jamaica’s most important city, but that era is gone. Still, there’s a pleasant atmosphere on the main street. The sun is already low over the sea when I reach Treasure Beach for the night. I have a lovely cottage with a sea view. I decide to order a beer first on the terrace, which means later I have to find cottage 49 in the dark. After some searching, everything works out fine. For dinner, I walk a little into Treasure Beach. After about fifteen minutes, I reach Jade Restaurant. In the garden under the trees, a few tables are set up. It looks cozy. No table is available yet. I place my order and take a seat in a lounge chair at the open-air bar. When I’m called, my table is ready and my food is served.