Israel > The lowest point on earth

After getting up, I reluctantly pack my suitcase again. I bring my luggage to the reception. The manager rushes over to take my suitcase and apologizes once more. Once I am on the bus, it turns out that almost everyone has to change rooms. I drive through the center of Bethlehem back to Jerusalem. Viraz chooses a route so that we cross the border at quiet checkpoints, which saves a lot of time. It’s strange that there is such a difference in waiting times here. In Jerusalem, Dafne gets back on the bus. Then we set off toward the Dead Sea. To reach the Dead Sea, a significant descent is required. At over 400 meters below sea level, the Dead Sea is the lowest point on earth. The water level in the lake continues to drop by almost a meter per year. This is partly due to evaporation, but also because the water is used for irrigation. The highly salty and mineral-rich water provides a unique experience when floating in it. The bus stops at a small factory along the lake—a real tourist trap. Numerous buses are parked here for the film and the shop. It’s annoying to be forced to spend time here, no doubt benefiting the driver and guide. I decide not to go inside. I walk off the grounds and follow the road uphill. In the distance, I can see the water of the Dead Sea. The surroundings are not particularly inspiring; mostly I see bare rocks under the scorching sun. I return to the handicraft shop and buy a cola. I wait until the other travelers have finished shopping. On the southern side of the Dead Sea lies Masada. Masada is an ancient fortress from the time of Herod around the turn of the era. During the Roman siege of the fort, the inhabitants held out for three years.

Israel - Nowadays the Citadel of Masada is easier to reach via cable car

When the Romans finally broke in, everyone had committed suicide. For me, it is easier to access the fort on the 400-meter-high rock, as there is a cable car. Each gondola carries eighty people at a time. Upon reaching the summit, I see the remains of Herod’s old fortress, which once housed about a thousand people. I walk among the ruins to the northern tip, where Herod’s palace is located. A black line on the walls indicates how archaeologists found the complex; everything above this line has been restored. In the bathhouse, I see how ingeniously the floor was constructed. Warm outside air was channeled under the floor, creating underfloor heating that warmed the space—like a sauna. The water was also managed cleverly: rainwater from the surrounding slopes was channeled into the fort and stored in carved-out caves. Even though it only rained a few days a year, this ensured a sufficient water supply. I decide to descend on foot rather than take the cable car. Along with a few fellow travelers, I take the so-called Snake Trail down the mountain. The zigzagging path makes the descent relatively easy, despite the heat.

Israel - Its busy at the beach on the Dead Sea

At the restaurant below, I order a sandwich, which serves as a good base for a swim in the Dead Sea. The resort near Ein Gedi is crowded; the parking lot is full of cars and buses. I change clothes and walk to the water, which is still quite a distance away. Since the water level drops each year, the walk to the shore gets longer and longer. Under the little umbrellas, hundreds of people sit. Many float in the water or cover themselves with the special Dead Sea mud. I walk into the extremely salty water and let myself float. Although I have swum in the Dead Sea before in Jordan, it is once again a remarkable experience. I don’t stay in the water long, though. I find a chair under a straw umbrella with a view of the water, order a beer, and watch the people in the water.