Israel > The Roman city of Caesarea

I pack my suitcase and bring it to the bus. Today I leave Bethlehem and head north toward Tiberias. On the bus, we pass the checkpoint between Palestine and Israel again. Viraz sets course for Tel Aviv. Tel Aviv is the country’s economic capital. Since Jerusalem is in occupied territory, many countries do not recognize it as the capital. This means that most embassies are located in Tel Aviv. The old center of the city is formed by ancient Jaffa. This old city later became part of Tel Aviv and has grown into the country’s second-largest city. I step out near the Mediterranean Sea at the old city center and wander through the narrow streets. Here, the atmosphere of the past still lingers. Streets too narrow for modern traffic. I walk under arches formed by houses built across the streets. Occasionally, I catch a glimpse inside through an open door. At the city park, a restored pillar shows that Greeks must have lived here long ago. After about half an hour, I get back on the bus. We continue to Caesarea, the ruins of a Roman city dating back to 400 BC. The city and the palaces of King Herod the Great have been discovered here and partially restored. Herod chose this location for its excellent seaport. Caesarea lies directly on the Mediterranean Sea.

Israel - The skyline of modern Tel Aviv

Upon entering the site, I first visit the Roman theater. A semicircular theater with a view of the sea. I think the theater has been restored a bit too modernly. The old theater is neatly finished with tight stonework. Nowadays, it is possible to use this theater for performances. I try to imagine what it would be like to attend a show in this remarkable place. Further on lies Herod’s pool. Right on the sea, he had a swimming pool built with a view of the water. For fresh water, he used a supply from the Carmel Mountains about 14 kilometers away. An aqueduct was built to channel the water. Lastly, I visit the Hippodrome, an ancient racecourse. Dafne explains that at that time, they decided not only to honor the winner but also the second and third-place finishers. This practice is still applied in sports today. After Caesarea, I continue to the city of Haifa in northern Israel.

Israel - The Roman theatre in Caesarea

Before arriving there, we drive into the Carmel Mountains, a nature reserve in hilly terrain. On the left side of the road, the damage caused by a forest fire several years ago is clearly visible. It will take years before the trees fully cover the area again. At the top, with a view of Haifa, we stop for a picnic. I eat my sandwich while enjoying the view of Haifa Bay. In the distance, I see the old Crusader city of Acre. Unfortunately, this city is no longer part of the tour, even though it was originally included in Corendon’s program. I find that very disappointing. What is included in the program is a short visit to Haifa. In the center, we stop at the Shrine of the Báb, the mausoleum of the founder of the Bahá’í faith. The mausoleum is set in a beautifully landscaped garden on the mountainside. From the upper terrace, I look over the extensive garden. At the very bottom, I see the mausoleum itself. Given the time, Dafne decides not to go to Nazareth today but to postpone it until the day after tomorrow.

Israel - The Shrine of the Bab the mausoleum of the founder of the Bahai faith

Otherwise, we would arrive in Tiberias very late. Or perhaps she had foreseen it, because just outside Haifa, the bus enters a long traffic jam. There has been an accident further ahead. Viraz, being from Nazareth, knows the local roads well. He takes the bus along side streets. Although this helps, he cannot prevent us from approaching Tiberias only around six o’clock. Tiberias lies on the Sea of Galilee. The lake is about 200 meters below sea level. On the descent to Tiberias, I have a beautiful view of the lake and the valley. Across the lake, I see the Golan Heights, which Israel annexed from Syria during the Six-Day War in 1967. In the distance, I can also see the hills of Jordan. I will spend the next two nights at a resort south of Tiberias. I have never stayed below sea level before. Exciting! This will truly be a low point of my journey. In the evening, the entire travel group gathers together. Two travel companions are celebrating 25 years of marriage. Together, we arranged a cake and give them a CD of Israeli music. Afterward, I stay a while at the bar.