Israel > The Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem

Fortunately, there is no mosque near the Sea of Tiberias. I am awakened by the wake-up call. Sleepily, I walk to the bathroom and turn on the shower. The force of the water makes the showerhead flip backward. A strong stream sprays across the ceiling, soaking the bathroom. I quickly turn the showerhead back toward the tub to wash. Using an extra towel, I dry the floor as best I can. By bus, I explore the area around the Sea of Galilee today. Jesus lived here for three years after being rejected from Nazareth. At Kibbutz Ginnosar, I board a boat for a tour of the lake. Here, fishermen once discovered a boat dating from the time of Jesus during low water. The recovered boat is displayed in the nearby museum. I ride a replica, sitting on the bow, letting the wind blow past me. The lake lies calm, with the faint outlines of mountains in Israel and Jordan surrounding it. Back on land, there is a chance to buy souvenirs and have coffee. I decide to use the time for a walk outside.

Israel - The Church of St John the Baptist stands on the spot where John is said to have been born

I return to the main road and buy a drink at a gas station. Following a green-trail path behind a hotel, I eventually reach the lake again—but on the other side of a fence. I have to search carefully to find my way off the hotel grounds. Just in time, I am back at the bus. We continue to Capernaum, where Jesus lived for several years after being rejected from Nazareth. I see the remains of an old synagogue where Jesus taught. Peter also lived here. The remains of Peter’s house are overshadowed by a modern church built on top, which looks somewhat like a spaceship. Inside, however, the church is beautiful. A glass panel in the floor gives a view of the remains of Peter’s house. A little further along the Sea of Galilee is Tabgha, where Jesus fed his followers. Five loaves and two fish were enough to feed the 5,000 present. Today, as with all sacred sites from Jesus’ life, a church has been built here.

Israel - A train wagon hanging over the abyss serves as a Holocaust memorial at Yad Vashem

The church is adorned with stunning mosaics. For lunch, Dafne takes us to a special restaurant where we can eat fish. Upon arrival, I see a large tent filled with long tables. I am guided to the garden, where more tables are set up. The menu is either fish with salad or just salad. I choose the relatively expensive salad bar. Everything here seems designed to serve meals as quickly as possible. Presumably, they assume each guest only comes once. Not very successful. In the afternoon, I visit the Church of the Beatitudes. This church stands on the spot where Jesus spoke to his followers on the Mount of Beatitudes. It is a beautiful and impressive church that draws many pilgrims. Finally, we visit the baptism site Yardenit on the Jordan River. The original baptism site of Jesus lies further south in Palestinian territory. To allow Jews to be baptized, Yardenit is now used instead. To reach Yardenit, Viraz drives along the east bank of the Sea of Galilee. I pass the Golan Heights. Dafne explains that in the past, shots were fired from the hills of the Golan Heights from Syria toward Israel. She reacts sharply if anyone comments that Israel took the Golan Heights from Syria, emphasizing that it was a matter of necessity. At Yardenit, I see several dozen pilgrims entering the water, dressed in white robes.

Israel - The place where Jesus is said to have been born in Bethlehem

Baptism is performed by fully immersing them in the Jordan River. Fences in the river prevent them from being carried away by the current. I sit on a bench along the bank and watch the extraordinary scene. If it didn’t hold such symbolic significance, it might have been fun to enter the water myself. Back on the bus, Dafne announces an additional stop at a date factory. While driving there, I see we pass the hotel. I have never been fond of factory-shop stops; in my experience, they are mainly for the convenience of the driver and guide. I decide to walk back to the hotel on my own—a short fifteen-minute walk. At the hotel, I order a beer and sit outside my apartment. When the other travelers return, some join me. Everyone brings nuts, chips, and cookies, creating our own little Tabgha. We stay there until it’s time for dinner.