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Travelogue Diwali in India

November 614 2023 (9 days)


India > The Umaid Bhavan Palace

Dag 6 - Saturday, 11 November 2023

I can take it easy this morning. It is the last day of my program. I pack my things and go to breakfast around half past eight. Until now, I’ve only been on the ground floor with the luggage, but the first floor of the building is also magnificent. It has an Eastern feel. Breakfast is laid out in the courtyard. Just before ten o’clock, there is a knock on my room door. The driver has arrived, I’m politely informed. I can leave my luggage at the hotel until I leave tonight. Very hospitable. The driver takes me to the Umaid Bhavan Palace just outside the city. This palace was built in 1928 on the orders of Maharaja Umaid Singh. It created work for over 3,000 laborers during a poor economic period. The palace is one of the largest in the world. The current Maharaja lives in one wing of the palace. Another wing is set up as a museum. The central part houses a luxury hotel. I buy a ticket for the museum. I’m no longer surprised that foreigners pay more than locals. I also think it’s good that everyone can visit the museum (and other attractions in India). The museum contains a diverse collection of antique clocks, furniture, pottery, and weapons. Actually, the building itself is the most interesting to see. The palace has a total of 349 rooms. Only six of these belong to the museum. This gives an impression of how enormous the Umaid Bhavan Palace is. The driver waits in the parking lot. I get back in to go to the Mandore Gardens. The Mandore Gardens lie a few kilometers outside the city. Until the sixteenth century, Mandore was the capital of the Marwar kingdom before Jodhpur became the capital.

India - The palace was built in 1928 by Maharaja Umaid Singh

It was the seat of the rulers of the Rathore dynasty. In the park stands the monumental cenotaph of Maharaja Jaswant Singh. The cenotaph of Rao Jodha, the founder of Jodhpur, is relatively modest. I take off my shoes to be able to look inside the monuments. There is also a gallery of heroes in the park — sixteen rock-carved statues of heroes of Marwar. The last one, Chamunda, is the mother goddess and patron saint of Jodhpur. Lastly, I visit the museum. I walk through the gate and am asked for my ticket. It turns out I missed a ticket booth outside. Through an opening barely ten by ten centimeters, I receive my ticket. Again, the former palace is more beautiful than the collection. It’s mainly amusing to find the right route through the museum. Security guards point me every time to the next door. When no one points anymore, I assume I’ve visited all the rooms. At a stall, I buy a cola and drink it in the shade. Everyone passing by greets me and wishes me a happy Diwali. Some ask to take a photo with me; others secretly take photos. I don’t mind at all. Around one o’clock, I am back at the exit. I ask the driver for a lunch restaurant. He nods. Shortly after, I end up at the same restaurant as yesterday. I hadn’t expected that, but it was a great place.

India - The monumental cenotaph of Maharaja Jaswant Singh

Again today, many groups are at the buffet. I choose a dish from the menu. I have quite a lot of food left over and ask for it to be packed for the driver. He seems happy with that. For the last time, I’m dropped off at the hotel. The driver says he will wait until half past six before I head to the station. I still have some time to walk into the city. I walk toward the clock tower. The city looks completely different in the daylight. But there’s no difference in how busy it is. At all the stalls, people are jostling to do their Diwali shopping. I pass the clock tower and walk through the city gate. I come back to the well. In daylight, the deep bathing area is more visible. Dozens of steps lead down to the water below. On a rooftop terrace, I order something to drink. I look out over the city and the Mehrangarh Fort. A lovely spot to conclude my visit to Jodhpur. I return to the hotel. It’s still two hours before departure. I sit in the restaurant and order a drink. While updating my travel journal, the hotel owner’s son comes by asking where I’m from. I estimate him to be about ten years old. He speaks good English and says his name is Abdul. He laughs when I say, “The Abdul from the Wi-Fi password.

India - The station is brightly lit ahead of Diwali

” When he hears I’m from the Netherlands, he immediately starts talking about the India - Netherlands cricket match for the World Cup happening tomorrow. He can’t believe I’ve never watched a cricket match. Meanwhile, I order a plate of fries from the menu. Around six o’clock, a staff member comes to warn me that I need to leave soon. A kind gesture, but I still have half an hour. Outside the hotel, the driver is still waiting. A somewhat shy but nice man. It’s a pity we can’t communicate more back and forth. I don’t speak his language. At the station, I say goodbye and give him a tip. He is visibly grateful for it. The station is fully decorated with lights. The old steam locomotive is also colorfully lit, while the station building changes colors repeatedly. I go inside. I’m way too early. I still have almost two hours to wait until my train leaves. The train departs at half past eight from platform 1. The man next to me checks this for me and confirms it. His train is severely delayed. The delay gets so long that my train is moved to platform 3. I move along with it. Around eight o’clock, the train arrives. I look for my carriage and my sleeping place. Next to me lies a Portuguese couple. They too are returning to Delhi to celebrate Diwali. Meanwhile, I spread the sheet over the bench and roll out my sleeping bag.

Diwali LampsDozens of oil lamps burn for Diwali
Decorated StreetsEverything is prepared for the upcoming Diwali festival
Palace of the WindsThe Hawa Mahal was built in 1799 by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh
Chet Singh GhatChet Singhs Palace on the banks of the Ganges