Egypt > High Tea at Hotel Old Cataract

Today we are scheduled to visit the temples of Abu Simbel. The alarm goes off at three o’clock. Downstairs, we are given a breakfast package. Sleepily, we board the bus at half past three in the morning. The drive to Abu Simbel is nearly 300 kilometers and can only be done in a convoy. The convoy from Aswan departs at half past four.

Egypt - The temple of Abu Simbel

If it’s very busy, sometimes an earlier convoy leaves at four o’clock. Mohammed wants to try to catch this earlier convoy, so we need to be ready early. When we arrive, it turns out the convoy isn’t very crowded. The journey officially begins at half past four with about fifty coaches and minibuses. I close my eyes and manage to sleep fairly well until half past six on the bus. We have extra space since not everyone is joining this excursion. When I wake up, we are driving in the middle of the desert. To the left and right, there is nothing but sand. Strangely, in front of and behind us, there is nothing but an empty asphalt road. Although we are in the middle of the convoy, we are completely separated from the lead group — the large coaches — while we in turn have dropped the stragglers behind us.

Egypt - Overview of the two temples together

Very safe! At half past seven, still alone, we enter Abu Simbel and stop at the temple. Because all tourists must travel in the convoy, everyone arrives around the same time. The area immediately becomes chaotic and crowded, and that’s just the beginning — the rest of the day will see only sporadic visitors. Mohammed gives an explanation outside the temple; inside, guiding is not allowed to avoid disturbing other visitors. The Temple of Abu Simbel was carved out of rock by order of Ramses II. Originally, the temple was located 200 meters to the east, but with the construction of the High Dam near Aswan, almost 300 kilometers away, the temple would have been submerged. In the 1960s, a rescue operation relocated the impressive temples. In front of Ramses II’s temple stand four enormous colossi of Ramses, forming the 20-meter-high façade. We visit the temple with its beautiful wall reliefs from Ramses II’s period. At the very back, we enter the sanctuary, where a statue of Ramses II is positioned alongside Amun-Re, Ptah, and Re-Horakhty. On two days of the year, sunlight from the rising sun falls precisely on the statues that were once covered in gold. The Small Temple was built by Ramses in honor of his favorite wife, Nefertari. Here, too, the reliefs celebrate Ramses II’s victories. By quarter past nine, we must be back at the bus for the return trip. The convoy eventually departs half an hour later. The route is somewhat monotonous, giving a good reason to close our eyes again. Later, we pass the time with a few puzzles. Just before Aswan, we visit the High Dam. The dam is over 80 meters high and replaces the old Aswan Dam from the early 1900s. Behind it, Lake Nasser stretches over 500 kilometers south. By half past one, we are back at our hotel. The Abu Simbel excursion was exhausting but definitely worth it. We order lunch at the restaurant and freshen up in our rooms.

Egypt - The souk market of Aswan

The lunch is served shortly after, and we enjoy it. In the afternoon, we walk toward the souk in Aswan. The souk is a cozy market with many stalls, though it is farther away than we expected. We decide to turn back and head to the Old Cataract Hotel, hoping to have high tea at four in the afternoon — provided we are allowed in. Proper attire is required. At the entrance, the guard first points out that we must spend at least 55 Egyptian pounds. When that isn’t a problem, he points to a sign saying casual clothing isn’t allowed. With our neat clothes from the suitcase, we feel appropriately dressed. After a brief phone call, we are allowed in. At the main entrance, we pass through a metal detector. The Old Cataract Hotel dates from 1899 and is especially famous because of Agatha Christie, who wrote Death on the Nile on its veranda. The hotel still exudes a British atmosphere. On the terrace, we meet other travelers, arranged in small groups as larger groups aren’t permitted. We enjoy the high tea and the sunset, sipping tea and sampling pastries and snacks until after six o’clock. On our way out, we walk through the hotel corridors. The dining room is very impressive and luxurious in the old style. In another wing, we see the old cast-iron lift with engraved windows. The lift operator invites us to the third floor to show Agatha Christie’s room. When he realizes we aren’t hotel guests, he explains he isn’t allowed to do this but does it anyway for an extra tip, which we gladly give. From the hotel, we walk back toward the souk, visiting the Catholic church in Aswan along the way. It is lit with fluorescent lights, and a mass is being held downstairs, while the main church upstairs undergoes major renovations. We continue along the boulevard back to the center.

Egypt - Sailing on the Nile on a felucca

We hadn’t spent nearly enough time there. Even in the evening, the market is very busy. Goods range from fruit to purely tourist items. Various vendors try to lure us to their stalls. Sometimes this is annoying, but by playing along and keeping a smile, it can also be fun. The only downside is that progress is slow — but who needs to rush in Egypt? After shaking many hands and giving shoulder taps to the often very clever vendors, we decide to have a drink at a small terrace on the market. Geert orders his water pipe, and the four of us enjoy the hustle and bustle. When the bill comes, we are suddenly asked to pay 60 Egyptian pounds. That seems high. We offer 50 pounds, but that isn’t enough. We ask him individually what everything costs. Even the price of the cola alone doesn’t match the total. The boy realizes his total no longer matches the prices. We get 10 pounds back from our fifty; he claims he had always said 40. Yes, yes! Probably still too much, but oh well. Back at the hotel, we have a beer in the lobby before bed, while the other travelers gradually return. Around eleven o’clock, we go to sleep after another long day.