Egypt > The Sugar Feast in Cairo

The alarm went off at eight o’clock. A shower, breakfast (with good coffee and bread rolls with cream cheese). Mohammed started the day with a briefing about the itinerary for the entire trip. He explained that it would be an intensive journey, and sometimes we would have to get up very early — the most extreme being once at one o’clock in the morning. Mohammed also told us about all the optional excursions during the trip, including the excursion from Aswan to Abu Simbel.

Egypt - The Pyramid of Chephren

I will probably do the full program, including all optional activities, since I’m not in Egypt that often. At ten o’clock, we set off toward the pyramids — literally and figuratively a highlight. We stopped at an ATM to give everyone a chance to withdraw cash. While waiting in line, we already had a fantastic view of the pyramids, rising high above the trees. Altogether, we wanted more money than the ATM could handle, and at the last two withdrawals, it displayed “out of order.” At the Pyramid of Cheops, Mohammed gave an explanation about the presumed construction of the pyramids. He also explained that the millions of stones were transported from the Aswan area along the Nile. With a height of 138 meters, the pyramid is an impressive structure. The stones, over a meter high, make it difficult to climb. Nowadays, plenty of guards are stationed to prevent anyone from even attempting it. We had twenty minutes to take in the Pyramid of Cheops and the Pyramid of Khafre. Twenty minutes turned out to be just enough to walk around Cheops’ pyramid. Along the way, we were approached by many Egyptian “friends” — they wanted to sell us all sorts of things, take photos with us, and basically, ask for money. One vendor was too quick for us; he shoved a package with an Arabic cloth into our hands. “Free, because it’s almost Christmas,” he said. Quickly, he opened the cloth and placed it on Geert’s head. “For the photo!” Another colleague did the same to me.

Egypt - The Pyramid of Cheops is built from meterhigh rock blocks

Realizing you’re stuck with it, we decided to take the photo anyway. We gave some money, but a few meters later, an angry vendor followed us, claiming he hadn’t been paid enough. After some Dutch swear words, he finally stopped and asked if we were happy. He then went off looking for new victims. From now on, we trusted no one — in Egypt, nothing is ever free. At that moment, the “camel man” appeared, offering free photos with his camel because we were Dutch. Of course, we declined! Luckily, several other travelers were also carrying Arabic cloths.

Egypt - The head of the lionlike Sphinx

By bus, we drove past the pyramids to a viewpoint, offering a beautiful view of the three pyramids in a row. Mohammed decided it wasn’t worth visiting the inside of a pyramid. He quickly posed the question, and it was immediately decided — no one wanted to go inside, so we would have more time at the Sphinx. I hadn’t even noticed the question at the back of the bus. At the viewpoint, we took photos of the pyramids in a row and then drove to the Sphinx. The Sphinx is located very close to Cairo’s suburbs, which looks strange because standard photos of the Sphinx are usually taken facing the desert. Mohammed explained the history of the Sphinx, and then we could take photos of the Giza plateau guardian ourselves. About 20 meters high and 50 meters long, the Sphinx seems small compared to the pyramids, but standing next to it, it is impressive. We gathered at the shops near the Sphinx, where the bus was waiting.

Egypt - The plateau of Giza from left to right Pyramid of Cheops Chephren and Mycerinus

We quickly bought some water; the sun had made us quite thirsty. Then we drove to a first-class restaurant in Cairo’s outskirts, where a buffet was ready. It was delicious. After lunch, we drove through heavy traffic to the Citadel. Because it was the end of Ramadan, Eid al-Fitr was being celebrated in the streets of Cairo, making it extremely crowded, particularly near the park. At the Citadel, crowds were thick, but we could enter via the special tourist entrance, likely because we paid. The Egyptian line pushed and shoved; police and guards tried to maintain order with sticks — bizarre! Mohammed found a quiet spot in the Citadel to explain the Mohammed Ali Mosque, but it didn’t stay quiet. Within seconds, hordes of children surrounded us, asking for money, trying to shake hands, and wanting their photos taken. Taking a photo of the mosque without someone photobombing was nearly impossible. The mosque was closed to visitors, but because we had paid, Mohammed knocked on the back door until he got a response. The crowd noticed the door opening and rushed toward it. We were in the middle of a big pushing crowd but managed to enter.

Egypt - The interior of the Mohammed Ali Mosque

Everyone had to keep their shoes off while holding onto valuables. Guards kept other visitors outside with sticks. A bizarre and intimidating situation. Inside, it was calm. Oddly, we were inside the mosque while worshippers were outside. The mosque is inspired by Turkish architecture with a large dome and minarets, and it has an impressive minbar (pulpit) next to the mihrab (niche indicating Mecca). After catching our breath, we exited the mosque and enjoyed the view over Cairo from the Citadel walls. The city’s smog gave the scene a misty look, with minarets peeking through. Crowds of young people gathered around us again, sometimes to the point of being intrusive. Two guards intervened to keep them at bay. By now, the excitement had worn off. By five o’clock, the Citadel was closing. Back on the bus, we reflected on the unusual Eid experience. Mohammed assured us this was not the norm; the crowds were solely due to the holiday. We then drove to a small papyrus workshop — essentially a tourist shop. Mohammed’s sister demonstrated how papyrus is made, followed by a chance to buy souvenirs. Afterward, we returned to the hotel. In the evening, we ate with nearly the entire group (Paul had overslept) on the hotel’s top-floor restaurant. After dinner, we walked along the Nile Boulevard. The streets were packed due to Eid, with cars honking more than usual. Many couples were out enjoying the holiday, and people frequently and enthusiastically greeted us with “Welcome to Egypt.” Even people in passing buses shouted it out. After about an hour, we neared the hotel. One busy three-lane street had heavy traffic, and it was nearly impossible to cross. Only after eight minutes did a small gap appear. Back in our room, we read a bit and went to bed at eleven, ready to rise again at six.