Bulgaria > Exploring Sofia

When I wake up, the other travelers are already on the plane back to Amsterdam. I get up and make my way to the breakfast buffet. After breakfast, I walk toward the city center. The heart of Sofia’s center is about a half-hour walk away. Soon I approach the National Palace of Culture, a strikingly modern building from the communist era. The structure is built mostly of concrete, with a large—currently dry—water feature in front and a spacious park.

Bulgaria - The Sveti Petka Samardzhiiska Church is surrounded by modern traffic roads

On the other side of the park stands a very ugly monument commemorating the liberation of Bulgaria. The monument is decayed, and the steel framework was once adorned with stately statues. I continue walking along Vitosha Boulevard, the main shopping street of Sofia. At this time, the street is still quiet. Many shops are just opening their doors. Construction workers are busy improving the paving, making parts of the street look like a construction site. At the end of Vitosha Boulevard stands the St. Nedelya Church, which for a long time was the main church of Sofia. I enter the church and admire its remarkable interior. Just behind the church, under the watchful eye of the “Sveta Sofia” monument, stands the small Sveta Petka Samardzhiiska Church. This tiny church is almost swallowed up by the nearby roads. As I descend the stairs toward the entrance, I hesitate for a moment, wondering if I can open the door. Inside, I hear some noise. Could there be a service taking place? I take the risk—and fortunately, I don’t disturb any service. A friendly lady tells me about the 14th-century church. The upper church even dates back to the 11th century. I explore both the lower and upper church in this small Orthodox house of worship.

Bulgaria - The old market hall has been restored into a trendy shopping centre

I thank the caretaker and step back outside. The weather is beautiful today, and the streets are now pleasantly busy. At the old market hall, I sit at a terrace and watch the people passing by. The nearby covered market hosts many small businesses, selling everything from fish and bread to clothing. In the past, the local market was held in this characteristic hall. Via the Banya Bashi Mosque and the old mineral baths, I reach the Sveti Georgi Rotunda Church. Just ahead of me, two large tourist groups enter the church. I decide to take a walk first for some peace and quiet, but it’s in vain. When I arrive at the church, a mass is taking place. Neither the tour groups nor I are allowed inside. Through the Presidential Palace and the archaeological museum, I reach a pleasant park. It’s around midday, and I order lunch at one of the terraces. Unfortunately, the menu is only in Bulgarian. By pointing to dishes on other tables, I manage to assemble a lunch.

Bulgaria - The National Theatre

In the afternoon, I walk past the art gallery, the national theater, and reach the Russian Church. It must be a remarkable church. Unfortunately, the interior is being restored, so much of it is closed off. Luckily, the crypt beneath the church is open. Here lies Archbishop Serafim, head of the Russian Church in the early 20th century. Several visitors write notes with wishes to leave at the archbishop’s tomb. Via the National Assembly, I reach the famous Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, a striking Russian Orthodox cathedral in the middle of a large square. Entering the church, I am surprised by the cathedral’s opulence. The ceilings are adorned with beautiful frescoes. At the altar stands an exceptional iconostasis, and magnificent chandeliers hang from the ceiling. I sit on a bench for a moment to enjoy this beautiful church. The crypt beneath Alexander Nevsky Cathedral houses an exhibition of icons. I stroll among the old artworks, though I am more interested in the modernized crypt. The last church I visit today is the Sveta Sofia Church.

Bulgaria - The Orthodox Alexander Nevsky Cathedral in Sofia

Just as I arrive, a wedding party exits the church. The newlyweds and their guests leave in a procession. Sveta Sofia Church is a Christian church and is relatively simply decorated—a stark contrast to all the other churches I visited today. For today, I’ve seen enough of the city. I walk back to Vitosha Boulevard. At a terrace, I order a beer and attempt to order a snack, which proves difficult. Eventually, I have a starter of toast with honey and goat cheese. I then walk back toward the Palace of Culture and continue in the direction of my hotel. Today, too, there is a steady stream of honking wedding processions—a lively scene. A few streets before the hotel, I find a nice restaurant. On the outdoor terrace, I order a delicious pizza. As I eat, I reflect on the remarkable impressions of Bulgaria’s capital. I realize I’ve seen a lot of the city today.