Bulgaria > The old village Kovachevitsa

Bulgaria - Inhabitants of Skrebatno

When I wake up, I am amazed by the bedroom. I’ve never slept in a bedroom with a fireplace before. As I get ready for the walk, I notice some people near the small church. I walk over to them. A man gestures for me to come closer. He hands me the large key to the church, and I have to unlock the door myself. He tells me that normally, forty days after the crucifixion of Christ, a song is sung in the church. He sings the hymn for me in the beautifully decorated church. The iconostasis is particularly impressive in combination with the singing. Before I can thank him, he has disappeared. It turns out he is the guide for an English couple. I am left alone with the key. I turn off the lights and lock the door again. I return the key to an older man in the churchyard. Fortunately, I am not late for the bus. I quickly get on board. In about half an hour, the bus takes me to the village of Skrebatno, where today’s hike begins.

Bulgaria - The viewpoint over the valley

As I step off the bus, I see a few elderly people sitting on a bench. I walk over to them. Since I don’t speak Bulgarian, I show them my photos of the Netherlands. The family pictures are particularly popular. It’s nice to be able to connect with the locals this way. I enter a street that goes uphill. I will follow the eco-trail—a hike along the ridge of the Kanina Gorge toward Kovachevitsa. From the top of the ridge, I have a view over the valley. In the distance, I see Leshten. I climb onto a rocky outcrop to get a better view of the valley—a perfect spot for a photo as well. Today’s route winds along rocks and through forests. Unlike previous hikes, I now follow a narrow footpath, which requires walking in a single file. I find that I actually enjoy this more. Slowly, I descend into the valley. On the opposite side, I see Kovachevitsa. I keep a careful eye on the clouds. The weather forecast for today is poor, with a high chance of rain.

Bulgaria - The traditional houses of Leshten

I also notice dark clouds clinging to the mountains, but they have not yet crossed the slopes. I realize how difficult it is to predict the weather in such a mountainous area. Taking advantage of the dry weather, I continue walking toward Kovachevitsa. At the bottom of the valley, I cross a bridge. The bridge beams are completely rotten. I carefully walk in the center where a sturdy support beam is located. I doubt this bridge will still be there in a few years. Safely on the other side, I walk uphill into the old village of Kovachevitsa—a characteristic village of Rhodope architecture, with houses made of stone and wood. Unfortunately, several houses have collapsed. I wander through the narrow streets, examining the houses. It is sometimes a miracle that they are still standing—they lean or are supported by poles. At the local café on the main street, I order a cola. From the terrace, I watch daily life unfold. I see locals walking on the street and, in the distance, another group of tourists approaching. I had expected many more tourists here.

Bulgaria - The hike through the valley back to Leshten

After half an hour, I get back on the bus and ride partway toward Leshten. Midway along the route, I get off for a walk through the valley. A trail takes almost two hours to return to Leshten, passing long fields, streams, and forests. Along the way, I pass a goat herder and a cowherd. It is wonderful to walk through the Bulgarian countryside. Back in Leshten, I settle on the terrace at the restaurant. With a beer in hand, I reflect on five delightful days of hiking. I realize how lucky I’ve been with the weather—every day has been dry. As I consider this from the terrace overlooking the valley, I see rain falling on the mountains across the way. In the evening, I dine at the restaurant—a varied meal with salad, soup, hamburgers, beans, and yogurt with honey for dessert.