Bulgaria > On the way to Leshten

I pack my travel bag for a transfer to Leshten, but first, there’s a beautiful walk on the program. The bus drops me off at the large dam. From here, I follow an asphalt path into the mountains. This is the route to the Orpheus chalet. The path is sometimes blocked by fallen trees and rocks.

Bulgaria - The mountain path is blocked by boulders

I step over them, surprised that they haven’t been cleared. The path winds slowly upward. In some places, boulders block the entire path. I clamber over the fallen stones, which gives the route a unique character. Suddenly, I face a massive pile of rocks, about five meters high. It’s not immediately clear how to climb over this obstacle. I decide to go over the top. As I lean on a fallen tree trunk, it snaps in two—the tree is completely rotten. I climb cautiously onward. From above, I can determine the best route to safely overcome this rock avalanche. Since I’m in front, I know the other travelers still have to face this obstacle. I leave a note for them, praising their effort. I continue to the chalet, where I wait for the entire group to regroup. The note motivates many of the climbers. After a short break, I continue toward Borino. Svetoslava emphasized staying behind her because the route from here goes through the forest.

Bulgaria - The accommodation in Leshten built from wood and stone

As soon as she takes a path, the route steeply ascends among the pine trees. A narrow trail leads me via a challenging climb to a mid-level plateau. I take it slow during the half-hour climb. At the top, it’s time for lunch. I enjoy my packed lunch. Then I hike the last stretch of today’s route—the descent to Borino. At a café on the main street, I order a drink. The café overlooks the local football field. Afterward, the bus driver takes me to Leshten in about two hours. In Leshten, I stay in a traditional house that has been fully restored. There’s some initial confusion about the number of single beds, which is quickly resolved. I stay in a house with a spacious living room, dining room, and upstairs sleeping quarters for four people. The entire house is traditionally built from stone and wood. From the large balcony, I have a view over the old village. The house right next door has not withstood the test of time—it has collapsed. Apparently, my house was used as a set in the 2012 film The Foreigner, in which a French student falls in love with a Bulgarian village girl. In the centrally located restaurant, I order a drink. This is also where the meals are served: a salad to start, cordon bleu with fries, and pumpkin for dessert. A fine meal. I linger in the restaurant until the owner starts clearing the tables—it seems it’s time for bed. I walk through the dark streets back to my house. In this special location, I will sleep very well.