Bulgaria > The Rila Monastery

I pack my suitcase for the final transfer. Today, I’m heading back to Sofia. Along the way, I visit the famous Rila Monastery. I leave my bag at the gate of my little house; the luggage will be picked up by car.

Bulgaria - Anyone who can leave Ivans cave through a small opening is immediately freed from their sins

I walk toward the restaurant for breakfast. Today, a type of pasta with Bulgarian cheese on top is served for breakfast. I don’t find the combination very appealing—certainly not for breakfast. I decide to pack some extra food for lunch instead. Afterward, I say goodbye to Leshten and continue by bus heading north. In about three hours, the driver takes us to Rila Monastery in the Rila Nature Reserve. I get off a few kilometers past the monastery, where the cave of Ivan Rilski—later called John of Rila—is located. This hermit prayed in the 10th century at the spot in the cave and became revered by believers. There is a narrow opening in the cave leading upward; all believers who can reach it through this opening are said to have their sins forgiven. I enter Ivan’s cave. It is very dark, and I feel my way along to find a wooden staircase. The stairs lead to the small passageway. I wriggle through the narrow opening and climb upward. I emerge from the cave without any problems—or sins. All my fellow travelers climb through the narrow opening one by one.

Bulgaria - The beautiful Nativity Church in the Rila Monastery

A little further on, I drink some of the holy water. The chapel at the cave is small but beautifully decorated, adorned with stunning frescoes. I then follow the path back to the monastery. The narrow route winds through the forest. At the chapel of Ivan’s cousin, halfway along the path, I pause for lunch. Today, the weather is cloudy, and the sky looks occasionally threatening. Sometimes a drop of rain falls, but it’s barely noticeable. During lunch, the sun comes out briefly, making it another beautiful day for walking. Just before three o’clock, I arrive at Rila Monastery. I pass under the gate into the inner courtyard and am immediately impressed by the monastery’s beauty. Around me are black-and-white striped buildings. In the center of the spacious courtyard stands the richly decorated Nativity Church. The monastery has been destroyed and rebuilt several times; the last fire was in 1833, after which it was entirely reconstructed. The portico of the Nativity Church is adorned with beautiful frescoes all around. Inside, the church is even more magnificent, with numerous frescoes and a large, impressive golden chandelier hanging in the center. The highlight is the beautiful iconostasis behind the altar. What a stunning church. After visiting the church, I buy a ticket for the Tower of Hrelyu, the oldest remaining part of the former monastery. The tower dates back to 1342 and has survived previous destructions. I climb the five-story tower via the narrow internal stairs. At the top is a chapel with frescoes, but unfortunately, the chapel itself is closed.

Bulgaria - On the last evening the entire travel group dines together

I can only view it through the glass, which makes this floor somewhat disappointing. After visiting Rila Monastery, I continue by bus toward Sofia. It’s still a two-hour drive to the Bulgarian capital. As I approach the city center, I see many honking cars decorated with balloons. There are numerous weddings in the city today. Partygoers hang out of the windows, shouting slogans in unison. No one on the street seems surprised—this is probably a daily occurrence. Around six o’clock, I arrive at the hotel where I will stay for the next three days. The hotel is on the southern side of the city, just outside Sofia’s center. When I try to order a beer at the bar, I discover that it closes at 5:00 p.m. I am directed to the adjacent restaurant. Initially, I am refused service because I only want a drink. After insisting a little, I am allowed to order a drink. In the evening, I dine with the entire travel group at a nearby restaurant. For most of the travelers, it is their last night. At the end of the meal, we thank Svetoslava for her guiding. I say goodbye to most of the group, who will leave for the airport at five the next morning. I will stay for two more days, which allows me to linger longer in the restaurant. I order another beer.